The popularity of Korean skin care in the beauty industry has been on the rise globally in recent decades, with a unique philosophy that emphasizes nourishing the skin, not stripping it.

Korean skin care is a gentler approach than Western skin care, focusing on maintenance and skin barrier health, which sets it apart from traditional skin care routines.

The use of unique ingredients like snail mucin, PHAs, and fermented ingredients, which are four times more potent than normal, is a key feature that makes Korean skin care distinct.

The international boom of Korean skin care can be attributed to its affordability, with most products under $25, as well as its adaptability to consumer needs and trends.

The influence of TikTok and Korean pop culture has also contributed to the popularity of Korean beauty, with sales of Korean skincare products doubling in 2024 compared to last year.

Korean skin care brands have successfully utilized social media platforms, such as TikTok, to remain popular and relevant, with 9.5 billion views and viral brands like Laneige.

The resurgence of K-beauty is due to a new "skintellectual" age group, with affordable price points encouraging cost-conscious shoppers to buy, and sales of "glass skin" products rising with Cosrx essence being top-selling.

The Korean government's investment in beauty brands has also played a role in the development of cosmetics, with the Korean skin care market expected to reach $11.4 billion by 2026.

Overall, the combination of unique ingredients, gentle approach, affordability, and effective marketing strategies has solidified Korean skin care's position in the global beauty industry.

The popularity of Korean skin care in the beauty industry has been on the rise globally in recent decades, with a unique philosophy that emphasizes nourishing the skin, not stripping it.

Title:

Content: Is Korean Skin Care Really Superior? An Investigation

Photographed by Hayleigh Longman
With its shelfie-worthy packaging and a focus on intriguing ingredients like snail mucin and fermented rice water, Korean skincare has been the subject of Western fascination for years. Brands like CosRx, Innisfree, and Laneige have assumed viral social-media status, while Glow Recipe and Dr. Jart+ are now practically household names, thanks to TikTok.
Besides whipping up curiosity, Korean skin care has established a name for itself as one of the most effective and trustworthy categories in beauty. And ahead of winter, it's seeing a serious revival. In the past few weeks, searches for 'Korean skin-care routine', '10-step Korean skin care', and 'best Korean skin-care products' have made up Google's skin-care trends. While on TikTok, the hashtag #koreanskincare has seen a handful of new videos, each raking in millions of views.
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In October, a tweet and TikTok video posted by skin-care blogger @Mul_OVO went viral for showcasing the benefits of switching to Korean skin care. But is Korean skin care really better? Or have we simply got caught up in the hype?
Cosmetic Chemist and Licensed Aesthetician Esther Olu believes our obsession with K-skincare started with 'glass skin' — skin so dewy, it's almost reflective. Olu says that glass skin was the ideal and promoted "healthy-looking" and "luminous" skin standards. "Everyone wanted to have healthy skin," says Olu, "and Korean [skin care] has played a critical role in this mindset."

The Korean approach to skin care is a lot gentler and there is a distinct difference in ingredients lists compared to Western products, which can be harsh.

You could argue that the main intent of skin care everywhere is to promote healthy, happy skin. But there are some key differences. Many Western skin-care trends (such as skin cycling, peels, and rediscovering skin toners) tend to home in on ingredients such as retinol and exfoliating acids, for example glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid. These are great when used properly and sensibly under the guidance of an expert but they can be notoriously irritating when overdone, as many of us tend to do.
Ask any dermatologist to pinpoint common skin gripes they regularly spot in clinic and they'll almost always reel off perioral dermatitis (a red rash that circles your mouth), burns, irritation, dryness, and a compromised skin barrier (redness, tightness, breakouts, rashes) — all a result of overdoing it on harsh ingredients.
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Of course, Korean skin care does feature the aforementioned ingredients. They do work, after all. But the Korean approach seems to be a lot gentler and there is a distinct difference in ingredients lists, too, says Olu. PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are a lot more popular in Korean skin care, for example. Take Dr. Jart+'s recently launched Pore Remedy range, in which PHAs are the star ingredient. Much like glycolic and salicylic acids, PHAs exfoliate the skin effectively, but what sets them apart from other exfoliators is their large molecule size. They exfoliate at surface level without going too deep and aggravating skin as other acids might. Glow Recipe and CosRx are just a few Korean brands championing them and subsequently promoting a kinder approach to the controversial exfoliation trend.
In fact, Korean skin care has been something of a savior for our irritated skin barriers of late. Much of Korean skin care shines a light on reducing inflammation rather than drying out skin. "Promoting hydration as well as soothing ingredients is a primary focus in Korean skin care," confirms Cosmetic Chemist Ramón Pagán. "This is a contrast to the products we tend to see in the west, which can be more astringent or irritating to the skin with higher percentages of active ingredients."
Pagán explains that thanks to skin-care marketing in the early '00s, the Western approach to skin care has been hooked on stripping skin: getting rid of the 'bad' stuff like excess oil and clogged pores. Conversely, Korean skin care is about nourishing the skin. Reddit's skin-care obsessives concur that Western skin care can be disagreeable, particularly for those with dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin.
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@hkjennylee #greenscreen and not to mention the dupe has bifida as the FIRST ingredient while the original has it as the SECOND… tea 🙈 #koreanskincare #kbeautyblogger #kbeauty #koreanskincareproducts #kbeautyskincare ♬ Monkeys Spinning Monkeys - Kevin MacLeod & Kevin The Monkey
Olu seconds this. "Western skin-care products tend to take a corrective approach," she tells R29. "Specifically, the formulas are dedicated to solving a skin-care concern, whether it is retinol, azelaic acid, or BHAs and AHAs," which are different kinds of exfoliating acids. "[Western skin care] is meant to help with anti-aging and things like redness," explains Olu, "while Korean skin care focuses more on maintenance and skin barrier health."
It's why you'll find excellent ingredients, like ceramides (very moisturizing and hold the skin barrier together), centella asiatica aka cica (a herb that decreases inflammation, redness, puffiness, and swelling) and niacinamide (vitamin B3, which keeps the skin barrier intact and reduces excess oil) in most Korean skin care. The color-correcting cream that recently went viral on TikTok? It includes cica — and of course it's Korean.

A reason why Korean skin care is so popular — and so good — is because the Korean government is said to have actively invested in its beauty brands to better develop cosmetics.

Redditors also point out that Korean skin care includes 'special ingredients' and technologies that Western products don't. Snail mucin (excreted from snails) is a popular moisturizing ingredient among Korean brands, with influencers and experts extolling the virtues of products like CosRx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence Gel. "This is a great barrier-protecting ingredient," Dr. Kemi Fabusiwa told R29 recently, "but it also gives your skin a great shine."
Then there's allantoin, popular in Korean skin care for locking moisture into the skin, as well as rice extract (said to increase hydration, making skin plump), and bee propolis, a natural substance produced by honey bees that has been proven to smooth skin and protect it from environmental factors, such as pollution.
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Beyond the more skin-friendly and interesting approach to ingredients, it has been reported that Korean beauty and skin care is one of the country's biggest businesses and exports. As the world's third largest cosmetics exporter, South Korea's cosmetics exports outperformed home appliances, pharmaceuticals, and smartphones in 2020. Data also suggests that South Korea's skin-care market will reach $11.4 billion in value by 2026. Interestingly, one of the reasons why Korean skin care is so popular — and so good — is because the Korean government is said to have actively invested in its beauty brands in order to better develop cosmetics.
"When K-beauty was introduced to the Western market through popular channels and social media, a phenomenon was awakened, creating demand and opportunity for business," says Nina Vargas, a global business strategist for beauty, fashion, and wellness brands. "This allowed Korean cosmetics companies to obtain help from the Korea International Trade Association (KITA)." KITA is a nonprofit organization that helps small and medium enterprises enter markets abroad.
What's more, Dr. Jenelle Kim, Founder and Formulator of JBK Wellness Labs, says that Korean skin care uses the latest science to understand exactly what our skin needs. "It utilizes ingredients in new ways, while remaining committed to formulating with centuries-proven ingredients and, for some brands [like Erborian, Sulwhasoo, and Beauty of Joseon], the powers of herbal medicine." Ginseng and green tea are super popular, for example.
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Dr. Kim adds that our skin's needs change with the climate or environmental factors, like air quality, makeup trends, and hormones. Korean skin care has consistently switched things up in an effort to help us stay in balance. Pagán agrees that heritage surrounds Korean skin care. "Lots of brands use 'hanbang' ingredients, which are based around traditional Korean medicine," he says. "These are often herbal and naturally derived." Post-pandemic, when we're more interested than ever in keeping healthy, highlighting medicinal skin care makes Korean products appear trustworthy and effective, elevating them above others.
In short, skin care is an inherent part of Korean culture. Head to TikTok and you'll see that Koreans view beauty not as a luxury but as a necessity. Countless videos suggest that from a young age, people are taught to take care of their skin and to look at skin care as a preventative measure. Year-round sun protection is also a big trend among Korean skin-care lovers, with a high factor, broad spectrum sunscreen said to be one of the most important products in a routine.
Another reason Korean skin care is regarded so highly is because the majority of it is affordable. Head to Reddit and you'll spot skin-care lovers swapping reviews of Innisfree, Tonymoly, and Etude House. The promise of soothed, hydrated skin is their main pull, but so are the relatively low prices, with most cleansers, serums, and creams coming in under $25.
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Amid a cost of living crisis, it makes sense that we want to spend as little as possible on beauty products. When it comes to Korean skin care, though, tightening your purse strings doesn't mean compromising on quality. All the proven skin-care ingredients are there, from retinol to acids, just in gentler concentrations and sophisticated formulas. Some TikTokers even point out that Korean skincare often dupes brands and products that charge hundreds for very similar ingredients and results. "It doesn't matter if you spend $1 or $100. If it's K-Beauty, chances are it's great," thinks Vargas.
Over time, the 10-product routine has given way to routines with fewer steps. Excessive layering doesn't work for everyone, particularly if you have a strict budget or your skin is sensitive, reactive, or acne-prone. But Korean skin care is ever evolving and always adapting to consumer needs. Because of this, three- or four-step routines are now trending among Korean influencers. TikTokers are sharing their easy skin-care rituals, which always start with a gentle, hydrating cleanser followed by a serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen. This is a quick and effective routine that dermatologists and skin-care experts often recommend for skin types across the board.
Pagán believes that Korean skin care stays fun and inventive. "It's simple but impactful and you get luxury experiences at affordable prices. You don't see Western brands readily introducing staple Korean concepts, like fermented ingredients or snail secretion." Add to that the serious investment and spotlight on nourishing the skin (rather than getting rid of the 'nasty' stuff) and it's clear to see why Korean skin care is regarded so highly. But is it better? Essentially, the very best skin care is the skin care that works for you. If it happens to be Korean, that's great. But if it's something else entirely, why switch it up?
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This story was originally published on Refinery29UK.
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Korean skin care is a gentler approach than Western skin care, focusing on maintenance and skin barrier health, which sets it apart from traditional skin care routines.

The use of unique ingredients like snail mucin, PHAs, and fermented ingredients, which are four times more potent than normal, is a key feature that makes Korean skin care distinct.

Title:

Content: Skincare Sunday

5 K-Beauty Trends To Amp Up Your Spring Skincare Routine

Rosdiana Ciaravolo

There’s a reason that so many of our favourite skincare trends (on TikTok and otherwise) hail from Korea, where they know a thing or two about how to create the juiciest skin. But what’s trending now? Vogue spoke to aesthetic doctor and K-beauty expert, Dr Christine Hall, to learn about the latest ingredients, routines and rituals coming from the place where it all begins – and how to work them into your skincare regimen with products currently available in the UK.

Fermented ingredients

We know how good fermented foods are for our guts, but our Korean counterparts know how good they are for their skin. “They ferment most of their ingredients – for example, red rice, lactic and glycolic acid, are all fermented byproducts,” she says. “Fermenting an ingredient makes it something like four times more potent than it would be in its normal state.”

Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial Mask

La Mer The Resurfacing Treatment

Purito Fermented Complex 94 Boosting Essence

HaruHaru Wonder Black Rice Bakuchiol Eye Cream

Skip-care

Even the Koreans are now shunning the 12-step skincare routine they made so popular. “There’s been a shift away from the very old school multi-step routine,” says Hall. “Skip-care is basically a fancy way of saying that you skip some of the steps. They do that by using products that house a combination of ingredients.” Step hybrid formulas, like Tatcha’s Vitamin C formula, combine different active ingredients (like vitamin C and fruit acids) in one formula. They work harder for the skin and save money and time – what’s not to love?

Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum

Byoma Hydrating Recovery Oil

Waterless beauty

“In Korea, there’s a real focus on products that don’t have much water in them – which is where the term ‘waterless beauty’ comes from. The idea is that you get way more than what you pay for because they last longer, due to the minimal water in the product,” says Hall. Look at many ingredients lists and you’ll notice “aqua” is often at the top, but the idea with waterless formulas is that, instead of being filled by water, they are packed with more efficacious ingredients and less filler. You’ll often find them in powder format or oils. For the latter reason alone, they’re not for every skin type, but Hall says this move has come from a more earth-friendly approach to beauty in South Korea.

Ethique The Perfector Nourishing Solid Face Cream

Chanel N°1 Red Camellia Powder-To-Foam Cleanser

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser Bar

Keys Soulcare Be Luminous Exfoliator

Skin flooding

You may have heard about “skin flooding” on TikTok – the term has a cool 2.1 billion views on the platform. The idea really originated with that aforementioned multi-step Korean skincare regime, where layer upon layer of hydration (using different formulas in different textures) were applied to the skin to quench its thirst. To “skin flood” is a similar affair; it involves applying a number of different hydrating products, from serums to lightweight lotions to thicker moisturisers, to deeply moisturise and lock it all in. “Double moisturising is also a big trend for those who are time poor,” adds Hall.

Huxley Grab Water Essence

Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel

L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Filler Line Plumping Water Cream

Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Sisley Ecological Compound Advanced Formula

Ren Clean Skincare Perfect Canvas Smooth, Prep and Plump Essence

Double SPF

And if doubling up on your moisturiser isn’t enough, have you also tried applying your SPF twice? “There’s a real interest in blue light, so the Koreans are finding SPFs that concentrate on blue light, then using another SPF – one that has light-reflecting filters and so on – on top,” says Hall. “This second SPF often comes in the form of make-up, and they’ll wear that as their base instead of applying foundation.” All in the name of excellent sun protection.

Dr.Jart+ BB Premium Beauty Balm SPF50

Supergoop! Mineral Mattescreen 100% Mineral Sunscreen

The international boom of Korean skin care can be attributed to its affordability, with most products under $25, as well as its adaptability to consumer needs and trends.

The influence of TikTok and Korean pop culture has also contributed to the popularity of Korean beauty, with sales of Korean skincare products doubling in 2024 compared to last year.

Title:

Content: Prestigious position for Korean skincare products in the UAE
Korean skincare products sweep the UAE market
Unique and effective ingredients in the product range drive demand in the UAE and around the world
Retailers in the UAE are seeing a dramatic increase in the sale of Korean beauty products recently.
Along with the wave of popularity of South Korean drama, movies and music, the country ’ s skincare products have also gained prominence.
Shiraz Khan, Chief Operating Officer of Aster GCC Retail, said: “We have observed a significant increase in demand for Korean beauty products, both globally and within the UAE.
At myAster, we saw significant growth of 60 per cent in the first quarter of the year, with skin care and sun protection products being the most sought after, contributing 61 per cent and 38 per cent respectively to our sales. ”
Other retailers have confirmed the growing demand for them.
Jonathan Watts, General Manager of AS Watson, said: “Korean skincare has become a treasure trove in the beauty industry globally and the Middle East is no exception. We have seen a significant rise in Watson this year, with sales doubling so far in 2024, compared to last year. ”
According to e-commerce company Noon, they have taken several steps to meet the growing demand.
Retika Jain, Head of Beauty at Noon, said: “Korean beauty products are seeing huge customer demand from Noon, especially in the skincare and makeup categories, and to meet this growing demand, Noon has partnered with local and Korean vendors to offer original Korean beauty products at very competitive prices, and deliver them quickly. ”
Reasons for fame
There are several reasons for the rise in popularity of Korean beauty products according to experts.
Jonathan Watts said: “Consumers highly value the focus on skin care within Korean cosmetics, as well as the unique and effective ingredients found in the product range.
Ingredients such as Hartlev leaves and snail extract, although unconventional, are effective and gentle on the skin. ”
He said there were other factors that made the skincare package so popular among the younger generation.
He added: “The majority of Korean beauty product brands are not harsh on the skin, and are in line with the growing consumer preference for ethically sourced products.
The influence of TikTok and the boom in Korean pop culture are also major contributors to the phenomenon we see with Korean beauty products. ”
Shiraz Khan
Shiraz said the unique preparation of the products also played an important role in increasing their popularity.
“Innovative formulas, high efficiency and a cultural wave driven by Korean beauty trends through social media and influencers are all factors that have helped their spread. Korean beauty products are known for their advanced skin care techniques and natural ingredients, which attract a wide population looking for effective and gentle skin care solutions, ” he said.
Glassy skin, dewy appearance
Jonathan said that “glass skin ” among Koreans is one of the most desirable things.
“This requires a careful skincare regimen that focuses on hydration, exfoliation and nutrition, areas where Korean beauty brands excel.
Products such as serums, masks, eye masks and extracts with moisturizing ingredients are essential for a vitreous skin appearance. ”
Regardless of the appearance of glassy skin, there are many other common Korean trends.
Retika Jane said: “In double cleansing, an oil cleanser is used, followed by a water cleanser to get clean skin. ”
“The trend of using makeup for both beauty and care has also increased.
Customers want to use clean, multi-purpose products that not only work as a lipstick or dye but also moisturize the skin, contain a sun protection factor (SPF) and provide comprehensive nutrition.
“The ‘ dew ’ look is one of the top trends this year, with a particular focus on glossy lips that look fuller. ”
Demand is expected to continue significantly in the near future.
Shiraz said: “We expect this trend to continue as consumers become increasingly aware of the benefits of Korean beauty products, their popularity is not just a fleeting fad but a testament to their quality and effectiveness in meeting different skin care needs. ”
Jonathan agreed: “Korean beauty is here to stay and is likely to become an integral part of everyone ’ s beauty routine in the future.
Watson currently owns more than 30 Korean beauty brands, and we are expected to launch 10 more this year. ”
Khaleej Times - Arabic Edition
www.khaleejtimes.com

Korean skin care brands have successfully utilized social media platforms, such as TikTok, to remain popular and relevant, with 9.5 billion views and viral brands like Laneige.

Title:

Content: default-output-block.skip-main

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

How TikTok Brought Back K-Beauty

While the K-beauty craze of the 2010s has waned in recent years, brands and retailers are seeing renewed interest in the category thanks to TikTok.
BoF PROFESSIONAL

Key insights

  • After K-beauty’s international spike in popularity more than a decade ago, it entered a period of decline at the start of the 2020s.
  • TikTok is leading a K-beauty resurgence. Laneige, Innisfree, Beauty of Joseon and Cosrx are among brands going viral on the platform.
  • K-beauty-inspired trends are also taking off. “Korean glass skin” saw 134 percent year-over-year growth on TikTok over a six-month period ending April 30.

When Laneige launched at Sephora US in 2017, its K-beauty identity was front and centre.

The Amorepacific-owned brand was featured in the retailer’s K-beauty endcap, a K-beauty menu bar section and multiple K-beauty campaigns. But half a decade later, hype around the category had faded, according to Julien Bouzitat, US brand general manager for Laneige and sister brand Innisfree.

“The first time, it was very successful,” he said. “The second time, not as great … [Sephora’s] takeaway was that the first wave of K-beauty had gone away.”

The K-beauty craze emerged in the US around 2012 with the rise of BB cream, and spurred countless subsequent beauty trends such as sheet masks, 10-step skin care routines and blemish patches. In the mid- to late 2010s, K-beauty fervour was so high that imported labels like Laneige and Tony Moly quickly faced competition from major US brands launching copycat products as well as from new K-beauty-inspired startups like Glow Recipe, Then I Met You and Peach & Lily.

But as K-beauty went mainstream, brands’ use of the term as a selling point died down — until now. Korean brands have TikTok to thank. The hashtag #kbeauty has 9.5 billion views on TikTok. The term “Korean glass skin,” a K-beauty trend that was popular in 2017, saw 134 percent year-over-year growth on TikTok over a six-month period ending April 30, according to data science company Spate and market research firm Circana. Sales of products that help users achieve the Korean “glass skin” look have risen, too. The viral Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence is now the number one best-selling beauty product on Amazon after taking off on TikTok. The brand said it has now sold 15 million bottles as of September.

While K-Beauty’s original heyday was driven in part by gimmick marketing and attention-grabbing packaging, its resurgence is due to a new “skintellectual” age group being drawn to product efficacy. Moreover, affordable price points are encouraging cost-conscious and dupe-obsessed shoppers to buy.

“There’s been a second generation which became more [focused on the] brand-building aspect of K-beauty and this Korean skincare expertise,” said Bouzitat.

The Wave Recedes

Since the 1990s, Hallyu — the “Korean wave” — has been growing outside South Korea’s borders, as the South Korean government encouraged international exports globally. The 2010s saw an influx of Korean culture and products, especially entertainment and beauty. US-based Sephora and Ulta Beauty stocked up on Korean beauty brands, while beauty conglomerates acquired them. In 2018, L’Oréal purchased K-beauty brand 3CE parent company Nanda, while the Estée Lauder Companies bought Dr. Jart+ in 2019.

“It took skin care to a whole other level. I don’t think it will ever be the same, thanks to the influence of K-beauty,” said Lindsay Ullman, co-founder of beauty consulting firm The View from 32 and a former merchandising executive at Sephora.

But its popularity kicked off an influx of K-beauty inspired brands stateside. Soko Glam and Peach & Lily both started as e-tailers selling imported K-beauty products before their founders, Charlotte Cho and Alicia Yoon, respectively, expanded with their own skin care brands. Quickly, legacy brands like Lancôme and Clinique began introducing their own versions of BB creams, sheet masks or cleansing oils.

Momentum slowed in the 2020s. Estée Lauder Companies reported in August that Dr. Jart+’s net sales declined during the 2023 fiscal year. In the US, Sephora stopped stocking at least 10 K-beauty brands that it sold in the late 2010s, including Too Cool for School, Neogen, Amorepacific and Son & Park, and no longer highlights its K-beauty section on its homepage. Amorepacific’s profits plunged by 28.5 percent in 2022. Even upstarts like Glow Recipe and Hero Cosmetics, that once traded on being K-beauty-inspired brands, stopped using the term in their marketing and communications.

An Influencer-Led Renaissance

It’s not the multi-step routine tutorials — which were the hallmark of 2010s K-beauty — driving the category’s comeback. Instead, it’s individual viral product crazes sparked by influencers and celebrities.

K-beauty sunscreens with formulas that don’t have a white cast, for example, have been a hit with influencers. Innisfree’s Daily UV Defense sunscreen, which went viral on TikTok, was explicitly cited as one of the top-selling products driving Amorepacific Group’s North America growth this year. Beauty of Joseon’s Relief Sun sunscreen has received 587 million views on TikTok, driven by influencers like Ava Lee, who is working on a collaboration with the brand planned for release in 2024. While the product is not yet approved by the FDA for sale in the US, customers have tried to find workarounds, ordering from cross-border websites or unverified Amazon sellers.

Meanwhile, Laneige is seeing double-digit sales growth in the US, said Bouzitat. The brand has been a hit on TikTok for the past two years thanks in part to its ASMR product videos and high-profile brand ambassador, “Euphoria” actress Sydney Sweeney. The efforts the brand has made on TikTok are part of a broader North America marketing push on the part of Amorepacific Group, which also launched a rebrand campaign for luxury brand Sulwhasoo this year. The company also returned to profitability in the second quarter of 2023, reporting that overseas revenue grew 27 percent, boosted by 105 percent growth in North America.

Unlike prestige predecessors, affordable K-beauty brands have become a draw for TikTok’s dupe-obsessed young shoppers. Beauty influencer Stephanie Valentine, known on TikTok as Glamzilla, prompted a sell out of Innisfree’s Dewy Glow Moisturizer when she offered it as a dupe for Tatcha’s Dewy Skin Cream Plumping & Hydrating Moisturizer. Within 48 hours, the item sold out at Sephora US and Canada as well as on the brand’s website.

“Innovation, no matter what category you’re talking about, clients are going to always be excited about that,” said Ullman. “Korean skin care is such an innovative player, so as long as they keep coming out with new formats, new textures, new ways to talk about skin care, there’s opportunity.”

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The resurgence of K-beauty is due to a new "skintellectual" age group, with affordable price points encouraging cost-conscious shoppers to buy, and sales of "glass skin" products rising with Cosrx essence being top-selling.

The Korean government's investment in beauty brands has also played a role in the development of cosmetics, with the Korean skin care market expected to reach $11.4 billion by 2026.

Overall, the combination of unique ingredients, gentle approach, affordability, and effective marketing strategies has solidified Korean skin care's position in the global beauty industry.


The popularity of Korean skin care in the beauty industry has been on the rise globally, with a significant growth of 60% in the first quarter of the year in the UAE, where skin care and sun protection products contribute 61% and 38% to sales respectively.

Korean skin care has become a treasure trove in the beauty industry globally, with sales of Korean beauty products doubling in 2024 compared to last year.

The unique ingredients used in Korean skin care products, such as Hartlev leaves and snail extract, are effective and gentle on the skin, making them a desirable choice for consumers.

Korean beauty products are also ethically sourced and not harsh on the skin, which is a major factor in their popularity.

The influence of TikTok and Korean pop culture has also contributed to the popularity of Korean beauty products, with the desirable trends of glassy skin and dewy appearance being highly sought after.

The demand for Korean beauty products is expected to continue significantly in the near future, with the market expected to reach $11.4 billion by 2026.

Korean skin care emphasizes a gentle approach and nourishing ingredients, focusing on maintenance and skin barrier health, which is a key factor in its popularity.

The use of unique ingredients such as snail mucin and PHAs, which are effective and gentle on the skin, is also a major factor in the popularity of Korean skin care.

The Korean government's investment in beauty brands to develop cosmetics has also played a significant role in the growth of the Korean skin care market.

Korean skin care products are also affordable, with most products priced under $25, making them accessible to a wide range of consumers.

The incorporation of traditional Korean medicine ingredients in Korean skin care products is also a unique feature that sets them apart from traditional Western skin care products.

The emphasis on sun protection and preventative measures in Korean skin care is also a key factor in its popularity, with the trend of double SPF being a notable example.

Korean skin care routines are evolving to include fewer steps and gentler products, with a focus on hydration and soothing ingredients over harsh exfoliants.

The use of fermented ingredients in Korean skin care products is also a unique feature, with fermented ingredients being four times more potent than normal ingredients.

The trend of skip-care, which involves simplifying skin care routines for efficiency, is also a notable feature of Korean skin care.

The concept of waterless beauty, which involves using products with minimal water content, is also a growing trend in Korean skin care, with waterless products lasting longer due to their minimal water content.

Korean skin care products often combine multiple ingredients in one product, making them a convenient and effective choice for consumers.

The focus on efficacious ingredients over fillers is also a key factor in the popularity of Korean skin care products.

The international spike in popularity of K-beauty over a decade ago was a significant factor in the growth of the Korean skin care market, with TikTok playing a major role in the resurgence of K-beauty, with 9.5 billion views on the hashtag #kbeauty.

The Korean glass skin trend saw a 134 percent year-over-year growth on TikTok, with products such as Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence becoming best-sellers on Amazon.

The focus on product efficacy and affordable prices has been a major factor in the resurgence of K-beauty, with brands such as Innisfree and Laneige seeing significant growth in sales.

The influence of Hallyu, the Korean wave, has also played a significant role in the growth of the Korean skin care market, with the purchase of K-beauty brands by major companies such as L'Oréal and Estée Lauder Companies being a notable example.

However, the decline in sales of Dr. Jart+ in 2023 after its purchase by Estée Lauder Companies is a notable exception, highlighting the challenges faced by K-beauty brands in maintaining their popularity and relevance.

Overall, the popularity of Korean skin care can be attributed to its unique philosophy, which emphasizes a gentle approach and nourishing ingredients, as well as its effective and affordable products, which have been able to tap into the growing demand for efficacious and convenient skin care solutions.

The use of social media platforms such as TikTok has also played a significant role in the growth of the Korean skin care market, with the platform providing a convenient and effective way for brands to reach and engage with their target audience.

The incorporation of traditional Korean medicine ingredients and the emphasis on sun protection and preventative measures are also key factors in the popularity of Korean skin care, setting it apart from traditional Western skin care products.

The focus on hydration and soothing ingredients over harsh exfoliants is also a notable feature of Korean skin care, making it a desirable choice for consumers looking for gentle and effective skin care solutions.

In conclusion, the continuing popularity of Korean skin care in the beauty industry can be attributed to its unique philosophy, effective and affordable products, and the use of social media platforms to reach and engage with its target audience.

The popularity of Korean skin care in the beauty industry has been on the rise globally, with a significant growth of 60% in the first quarter of the year in the UAE, where skin care and sun protection products contribute 61% and 38% to sales respectively.

Title:

Content: Prestigious position for Korean skincare products in the UAE
Korean skincare products sweep the UAE market
Unique and effective ingredients in the product range drive demand in the UAE and around the world
Retailers in the UAE are seeing a dramatic increase in the sale of Korean beauty products recently.
Along with the wave of popularity of South Korean drama, movies and music, the country ’ s skincare products have also gained prominence.
Shiraz Khan, Chief Operating Officer of Aster GCC Retail, said: “We have observed a significant increase in demand for Korean beauty products, both globally and within the UAE.
At myAster, we saw significant growth of 60 per cent in the first quarter of the year, with skin care and sun protection products being the most sought after, contributing 61 per cent and 38 per cent respectively to our sales. ”
Other retailers have confirmed the growing demand for them.
Jonathan Watts, General Manager of AS Watson, said: “Korean skincare has become a treasure trove in the beauty industry globally and the Middle East is no exception. We have seen a significant rise in Watson this year, with sales doubling so far in 2024, compared to last year. ”
According to e-commerce company Noon, they have taken several steps to meet the growing demand.
Retika Jain, Head of Beauty at Noon, said: “Korean beauty products are seeing huge customer demand from Noon, especially in the skincare and makeup categories, and to meet this growing demand, Noon has partnered with local and Korean vendors to offer original Korean beauty products at very competitive prices, and deliver them quickly. ”
Reasons for fame
There are several reasons for the rise in popularity of Korean beauty products according to experts.
Jonathan Watts said: “Consumers highly value the focus on skin care within Korean cosmetics, as well as the unique and effective ingredients found in the product range.
Ingredients such as Hartlev leaves and snail extract, although unconventional, are effective and gentle on the skin. ”
He said there were other factors that made the skincare package so popular among the younger generation.
He added: “The majority of Korean beauty product brands are not harsh on the skin, and are in line with the growing consumer preference for ethically sourced products.
The influence of TikTok and the boom in Korean pop culture are also major contributors to the phenomenon we see with Korean beauty products. ”
Shiraz Khan
Shiraz said the unique preparation of the products also played an important role in increasing their popularity.
“Innovative formulas, high efficiency and a cultural wave driven by Korean beauty trends through social media and influencers are all factors that have helped their spread. Korean beauty products are known for their advanced skin care techniques and natural ingredients, which attract a wide population looking for effective and gentle skin care solutions, ” he said.
Glassy skin, dewy appearance
Jonathan said that “glass skin ” among Koreans is one of the most desirable things.
“This requires a careful skincare regimen that focuses on hydration, exfoliation and nutrition, areas where Korean beauty brands excel.
Products such as serums, masks, eye masks and extracts with moisturizing ingredients are essential for a vitreous skin appearance. ”
Regardless of the appearance of glassy skin, there are many other common Korean trends.
Retika Jane said: “In double cleansing, an oil cleanser is used, followed by a water cleanser to get clean skin. ”
“The trend of using makeup for both beauty and care has also increased.
Customers want to use clean, multi-purpose products that not only work as a lipstick or dye but also moisturize the skin, contain a sun protection factor (SPF) and provide comprehensive nutrition.
“The ‘ dew ’ look is one of the top trends this year, with a particular focus on glossy lips that look fuller. ”
Demand is expected to continue significantly in the near future.
Shiraz said: “We expect this trend to continue as consumers become increasingly aware of the benefits of Korean beauty products, their popularity is not just a fleeting fad but a testament to their quality and effectiveness in meeting different skin care needs. ”
Jonathan agreed: “Korean beauty is here to stay and is likely to become an integral part of everyone ’ s beauty routine in the future.
Watson currently owns more than 30 Korean beauty brands, and we are expected to launch 10 more this year. ”
Khaleej Times - Arabic Edition
www.khaleejtimes.com

Korean skin care has become a treasure trove in the beauty industry globally, with sales of Korean beauty products doubling in 2024 compared to last year.

The unique ingredients used in Korean skin care products, such as Hartlev leaves and snail extract, are effective and gentle on the skin, making them a desirable choice for consumers.

Korean beauty products are also ethically sourced and not harsh on the skin, which is a major factor in their popularity.

The influence of TikTok and Korean pop culture has also contributed to the popularity of Korean beauty products, with the desirable trends of glassy skin and dewy appearance being highly sought after.

The demand for Korean beauty products is expected to continue significantly in the near future, with the market expected to reach $11.4 billion by 2026.

Title:

Content: Is Korean Skin Care Really Superior? An Investigation

Photographed by Hayleigh Longman
With its shelfie-worthy packaging and a focus on intriguing ingredients like snail mucin and fermented rice water, Korean skincare has been the subject of Western fascination for years. Brands like CosRx, Innisfree, and Laneige have assumed viral social-media status, while Glow Recipe and Dr. Jart+ are now practically household names, thanks to TikTok.
Besides whipping up curiosity, Korean skin care has established a name for itself as one of the most effective and trustworthy categories in beauty. And ahead of winter, it's seeing a serious revival. In the past few weeks, searches for 'Korean skin-care routine', '10-step Korean skin care', and 'best Korean skin-care products' have made up Google's skin-care trends. While on TikTok, the hashtag #koreanskincare has seen a handful of new videos, each raking in millions of views.
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In October, a tweet and TikTok video posted by skin-care blogger @Mul_OVO went viral for showcasing the benefits of switching to Korean skin care. But is Korean skin care really better? Or have we simply got caught up in the hype?
Cosmetic Chemist and Licensed Aesthetician Esther Olu believes our obsession with K-skincare started with 'glass skin' — skin so dewy, it's almost reflective. Olu says that glass skin was the ideal and promoted "healthy-looking" and "luminous" skin standards. "Everyone wanted to have healthy skin," says Olu, "and Korean [skin care] has played a critical role in this mindset."

The Korean approach to skin care is a lot gentler and there is a distinct difference in ingredients lists compared to Western products, which can be harsh.

You could argue that the main intent of skin care everywhere is to promote healthy, happy skin. But there are some key differences. Many Western skin-care trends (such as skin cycling, peels, and rediscovering skin toners) tend to home in on ingredients such as retinol and exfoliating acids, for example glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid. These are great when used properly and sensibly under the guidance of an expert but they can be notoriously irritating when overdone, as many of us tend to do.
Ask any dermatologist to pinpoint common skin gripes they regularly spot in clinic and they'll almost always reel off perioral dermatitis (a red rash that circles your mouth), burns, irritation, dryness, and a compromised skin barrier (redness, tightness, breakouts, rashes) — all a result of overdoing it on harsh ingredients.
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Of course, Korean skin care does feature the aforementioned ingredients. They do work, after all. But the Korean approach seems to be a lot gentler and there is a distinct difference in ingredients lists, too, says Olu. PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are a lot more popular in Korean skin care, for example. Take Dr. Jart+'s recently launched Pore Remedy range, in which PHAs are the star ingredient. Much like glycolic and salicylic acids, PHAs exfoliate the skin effectively, but what sets them apart from other exfoliators is their large molecule size. They exfoliate at surface level without going too deep and aggravating skin as other acids might. Glow Recipe and CosRx are just a few Korean brands championing them and subsequently promoting a kinder approach to the controversial exfoliation trend.
In fact, Korean skin care has been something of a savior for our irritated skin barriers of late. Much of Korean skin care shines a light on reducing inflammation rather than drying out skin. "Promoting hydration as well as soothing ingredients is a primary focus in Korean skin care," confirms Cosmetic Chemist Ramón Pagán. "This is a contrast to the products we tend to see in the west, which can be more astringent or irritating to the skin with higher percentages of active ingredients."
Pagán explains that thanks to skin-care marketing in the early '00s, the Western approach to skin care has been hooked on stripping skin: getting rid of the 'bad' stuff like excess oil and clogged pores. Conversely, Korean skin care is about nourishing the skin. Reddit's skin-care obsessives concur that Western skin care can be disagreeable, particularly for those with dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin.
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@hkjennylee #greenscreen and not to mention the dupe has bifida as the FIRST ingredient while the original has it as the SECOND… tea 🙈 #koreanskincare #kbeautyblogger #kbeauty #koreanskincareproducts #kbeautyskincare ♬ Monkeys Spinning Monkeys - Kevin MacLeod & Kevin The Monkey
Olu seconds this. "Western skin-care products tend to take a corrective approach," she tells R29. "Specifically, the formulas are dedicated to solving a skin-care concern, whether it is retinol, azelaic acid, or BHAs and AHAs," which are different kinds of exfoliating acids. "[Western skin care] is meant to help with anti-aging and things like redness," explains Olu, "while Korean skin care focuses more on maintenance and skin barrier health."
It's why you'll find excellent ingredients, like ceramides (very moisturizing and hold the skin barrier together), centella asiatica aka cica (a herb that decreases inflammation, redness, puffiness, and swelling) and niacinamide (vitamin B3, which keeps the skin barrier intact and reduces excess oil) in most Korean skin care. The color-correcting cream that recently went viral on TikTok? It includes cica — and of course it's Korean.

A reason why Korean skin care is so popular — and so good — is because the Korean government is said to have actively invested in its beauty brands to better develop cosmetics.

Redditors also point out that Korean skin care includes 'special ingredients' and technologies that Western products don't. Snail mucin (excreted from snails) is a popular moisturizing ingredient among Korean brands, with influencers and experts extolling the virtues of products like CosRx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence Gel. "This is a great barrier-protecting ingredient," Dr. Kemi Fabusiwa told R29 recently, "but it also gives your skin a great shine."
Then there's allantoin, popular in Korean skin care for locking moisture into the skin, as well as rice extract (said to increase hydration, making skin plump), and bee propolis, a natural substance produced by honey bees that has been proven to smooth skin and protect it from environmental factors, such as pollution.
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Beyond the more skin-friendly and interesting approach to ingredients, it has been reported that Korean beauty and skin care is one of the country's biggest businesses and exports. As the world's third largest cosmetics exporter, South Korea's cosmetics exports outperformed home appliances, pharmaceuticals, and smartphones in 2020. Data also suggests that South Korea's skin-care market will reach $11.4 billion in value by 2026. Interestingly, one of the reasons why Korean skin care is so popular — and so good — is because the Korean government is said to have actively invested in its beauty brands in order to better develop cosmetics.
"When K-beauty was introduced to the Western market through popular channels and social media, a phenomenon was awakened, creating demand and opportunity for business," says Nina Vargas, a global business strategist for beauty, fashion, and wellness brands. "This allowed Korean cosmetics companies to obtain help from the Korea International Trade Association (KITA)." KITA is a nonprofit organization that helps small and medium enterprises enter markets abroad.
What's more, Dr. Jenelle Kim, Founder and Formulator of JBK Wellness Labs, says that Korean skin care uses the latest science to understand exactly what our skin needs. "It utilizes ingredients in new ways, while remaining committed to formulating with centuries-proven ingredients and, for some brands [like Erborian, Sulwhasoo, and Beauty of Joseon], the powers of herbal medicine." Ginseng and green tea are super popular, for example.
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Dr. Kim adds that our skin's needs change with the climate or environmental factors, like air quality, makeup trends, and hormones. Korean skin care has consistently switched things up in an effort to help us stay in balance. Pagán agrees that heritage surrounds Korean skin care. "Lots of brands use 'hanbang' ingredients, which are based around traditional Korean medicine," he says. "These are often herbal and naturally derived." Post-pandemic, when we're more interested than ever in keeping healthy, highlighting medicinal skin care makes Korean products appear trustworthy and effective, elevating them above others.
In short, skin care is an inherent part of Korean culture. Head to TikTok and you'll see that Koreans view beauty not as a luxury but as a necessity. Countless videos suggest that from a young age, people are taught to take care of their skin and to look at skin care as a preventative measure. Year-round sun protection is also a big trend among Korean skin-care lovers, with a high factor, broad spectrum sunscreen said to be one of the most important products in a routine.
Another reason Korean skin care is regarded so highly is because the majority of it is affordable. Head to Reddit and you'll spot skin-care lovers swapping reviews of Innisfree, Tonymoly, and Etude House. The promise of soothed, hydrated skin is their main pull, but so are the relatively low prices, with most cleansers, serums, and creams coming in under $25.
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Amid a cost of living crisis, it makes sense that we want to spend as little as possible on beauty products. When it comes to Korean skin care, though, tightening your purse strings doesn't mean compromising on quality. All the proven skin-care ingredients are there, from retinol to acids, just in gentler concentrations and sophisticated formulas. Some TikTokers even point out that Korean skincare often dupes brands and products that charge hundreds for very similar ingredients and results. "It doesn't matter if you spend $1 or $100. If it's K-Beauty, chances are it's great," thinks Vargas.
Over time, the 10-product routine has given way to routines with fewer steps. Excessive layering doesn't work for everyone, particularly if you have a strict budget or your skin is sensitive, reactive, or acne-prone. But Korean skin care is ever evolving and always adapting to consumer needs. Because of this, three- or four-step routines are now trending among Korean influencers. TikTokers are sharing their easy skin-care rituals, which always start with a gentle, hydrating cleanser followed by a serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen. This is a quick and effective routine that dermatologists and skin-care experts often recommend for skin types across the board.
Pagán believes that Korean skin care stays fun and inventive. "It's simple but impactful and you get luxury experiences at affordable prices. You don't see Western brands readily introducing staple Korean concepts, like fermented ingredients or snail secretion." Add to that the serious investment and spotlight on nourishing the skin (rather than getting rid of the 'nasty' stuff) and it's clear to see why Korean skin care is regarded so highly. But is it better? Essentially, the very best skin care is the skin care that works for you. If it happens to be Korean, that's great. But if it's something else entirely, why switch it up?
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This story was originally published on Refinery29UK.
At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Korean skin care emphasizes a gentle approach and nourishing ingredients, focusing on maintenance and skin barrier health, which is a key factor in its popularity.

The use of unique ingredients such as snail mucin and PHAs, which are effective and gentle on the skin, is also a major factor in the popularity of Korean skin care.

The Korean government's investment in beauty brands to develop cosmetics has also played a significant role in the growth of the Korean skin care market.

Korean skin care products are also affordable, with most products priced under $25, making them accessible to a wide range of consumers.

The incorporation of traditional Korean medicine ingredients in Korean skin care products is also a unique feature that sets them apart from traditional Western skin care products.

The emphasis on sun protection and preventative measures in Korean skin care is also a key factor in its popularity, with the trend of double SPF being a notable example.

Title:

Content: Skincare Sunday

5 K-Beauty Trends To Amp Up Your Spring Skincare Routine

Rosdiana Ciaravolo

There’s a reason that so many of our favourite skincare trends (on TikTok and otherwise) hail from Korea, where they know a thing or two about how to create the juiciest skin. But what’s trending now? Vogue spoke to aesthetic doctor and K-beauty expert, Dr Christine Hall, to learn about the latest ingredients, routines and rituals coming from the place where it all begins – and how to work them into your skincare regimen with products currently available in the UK.

Fermented ingredients

We know how good fermented foods are for our guts, but our Korean counterparts know how good they are for their skin. “They ferment most of their ingredients – for example, red rice, lactic and glycolic acid, are all fermented byproducts,” she says. “Fermenting an ingredient makes it something like four times more potent than it would be in its normal state.”

Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial Mask

La Mer The Resurfacing Treatment

Purito Fermented Complex 94 Boosting Essence

HaruHaru Wonder Black Rice Bakuchiol Eye Cream

Skip-care

Even the Koreans are now shunning the 12-step skincare routine they made so popular. “There’s been a shift away from the very old school multi-step routine,” says Hall. “Skip-care is basically a fancy way of saying that you skip some of the steps. They do that by using products that house a combination of ingredients.” Step hybrid formulas, like Tatcha’s Vitamin C formula, combine different active ingredients (like vitamin C and fruit acids) in one formula. They work harder for the skin and save money and time – what’s not to love?

Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum

Byoma Hydrating Recovery Oil

Waterless beauty

“In Korea, there’s a real focus on products that don’t have much water in them – which is where the term ‘waterless beauty’ comes from. The idea is that you get way more than what you pay for because they last longer, due to the minimal water in the product,” says Hall. Look at many ingredients lists and you’ll notice “aqua” is often at the top, but the idea with waterless formulas is that, instead of being filled by water, they are packed with more efficacious ingredients and less filler. You’ll often find them in powder format or oils. For the latter reason alone, they’re not for every skin type, but Hall says this move has come from a more earth-friendly approach to beauty in South Korea.

Ethique The Perfector Nourishing Solid Face Cream

Chanel N°1 Red Camellia Powder-To-Foam Cleanser

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser Bar

Keys Soulcare Be Luminous Exfoliator

Skin flooding

You may have heard about “skin flooding” on TikTok – the term has a cool 2.1 billion views on the platform. The idea really originated with that aforementioned multi-step Korean skincare regime, where layer upon layer of hydration (using different formulas in different textures) were applied to the skin to quench its thirst. To “skin flood” is a similar affair; it involves applying a number of different hydrating products, from serums to lightweight lotions to thicker moisturisers, to deeply moisturise and lock it all in. “Double moisturising is also a big trend for those who are time poor,” adds Hall.

Huxley Grab Water Essence

Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel

L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Filler Line Plumping Water Cream

Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Sisley Ecological Compound Advanced Formula

Ren Clean Skincare Perfect Canvas Smooth, Prep and Plump Essence

Double SPF

And if doubling up on your moisturiser isn’t enough, have you also tried applying your SPF twice? “There’s a real interest in blue light, so the Koreans are finding SPFs that concentrate on blue light, then using another SPF – one that has light-reflecting filters and so on – on top,” says Hall. “This second SPF often comes in the form of make-up, and they’ll wear that as their base instead of applying foundation.” All in the name of excellent sun protection.

Dr.Jart+ BB Premium Beauty Balm SPF50

Supergoop! Mineral Mattescreen 100% Mineral Sunscreen

Korean skin care routines are evolving to include fewer steps and gentler products, with a focus on hydration and soothing ingredients over harsh exfoliants.

The use of fermented ingredients in Korean skin care products is also a unique feature, with fermented ingredients being four times more potent than normal ingredients.

The trend of skip-care, which involves simplifying skin care routines for efficiency, is also a notable feature of Korean skin care.

The concept of waterless beauty, which involves using products with minimal water content, is also a growing trend in Korean skin care, with waterless products lasting longer due to their minimal water content.

Korean skin care products often combine multiple ingredients in one product, making them a convenient and effective choice for consumers.

The focus on efficacious ingredients over fillers is also a key factor in the popularity of Korean skin care products.

The international spike in popularity of K-beauty over a decade ago was a significant factor in the growth of the Korean skin care market, with TikTok playing a major role in the resurgence of K-beauty, with 9.5 billion views on the hashtag #kbeauty.

Title:

Content: default-output-block.skip-main

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

How TikTok Brought Back K-Beauty

While the K-beauty craze of the 2010s has waned in recent years, brands and retailers are seeing renewed interest in the category thanks to TikTok.
BoF PROFESSIONAL

Key insights

  • After K-beauty’s international spike in popularity more than a decade ago, it entered a period of decline at the start of the 2020s.
  • TikTok is leading a K-beauty resurgence. Laneige, Innisfree, Beauty of Joseon and Cosrx are among brands going viral on the platform.
  • K-beauty-inspired trends are also taking off. “Korean glass skin” saw 134 percent year-over-year growth on TikTok over a six-month period ending April 30.

When Laneige launched at Sephora US in 2017, its K-beauty identity was front and centre.

The Amorepacific-owned brand was featured in the retailer’s K-beauty endcap, a K-beauty menu bar section and multiple K-beauty campaigns. But half a decade later, hype around the category had faded, according to Julien Bouzitat, US brand general manager for Laneige and sister brand Innisfree.

“The first time, it was very successful,” he said. “The second time, not as great … [Sephora’s] takeaway was that the first wave of K-beauty had gone away.”

The K-beauty craze emerged in the US around 2012 with the rise of BB cream, and spurred countless subsequent beauty trends such as sheet masks, 10-step skin care routines and blemish patches. In the mid- to late 2010s, K-beauty fervour was so high that imported labels like Laneige and Tony Moly quickly faced competition from major US brands launching copycat products as well as from new K-beauty-inspired startups like Glow Recipe, Then I Met You and Peach & Lily.

But as K-beauty went mainstream, brands’ use of the term as a selling point died down — until now. Korean brands have TikTok to thank. The hashtag #kbeauty has 9.5 billion views on TikTok. The term “Korean glass skin,” a K-beauty trend that was popular in 2017, saw 134 percent year-over-year growth on TikTok over a six-month period ending April 30, according to data science company Spate and market research firm Circana. Sales of products that help users achieve the Korean “glass skin” look have risen, too. The viral Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence is now the number one best-selling beauty product on Amazon after taking off on TikTok. The brand said it has now sold 15 million bottles as of September.

While K-Beauty’s original heyday was driven in part by gimmick marketing and attention-grabbing packaging, its resurgence is due to a new “skintellectual” age group being drawn to product efficacy. Moreover, affordable price points are encouraging cost-conscious and dupe-obsessed shoppers to buy.

“There’s been a second generation which became more [focused on the] brand-building aspect of K-beauty and this Korean skincare expertise,” said Bouzitat.

The Wave Recedes

Since the 1990s, Hallyu — the “Korean wave” — has been growing outside South Korea’s borders, as the South Korean government encouraged international exports globally. The 2010s saw an influx of Korean culture and products, especially entertainment and beauty. US-based Sephora and Ulta Beauty stocked up on Korean beauty brands, while beauty conglomerates acquired them. In 2018, L’Oréal purchased K-beauty brand 3CE parent company Nanda, while the Estée Lauder Companies bought Dr. Jart+ in 2019.

“It took skin care to a whole other level. I don’t think it will ever be the same, thanks to the influence of K-beauty,” said Lindsay Ullman, co-founder of beauty consulting firm The View from 32 and a former merchandising executive at Sephora.

But its popularity kicked off an influx of K-beauty inspired brands stateside. Soko Glam and Peach & Lily both started as e-tailers selling imported K-beauty products before their founders, Charlotte Cho and Alicia Yoon, respectively, expanded with their own skin care brands. Quickly, legacy brands like Lancôme and Clinique began introducing their own versions of BB creams, sheet masks or cleansing oils.

Momentum slowed in the 2020s. Estée Lauder Companies reported in August that Dr. Jart+’s net sales declined during the 2023 fiscal year. In the US, Sephora stopped stocking at least 10 K-beauty brands that it sold in the late 2010s, including Too Cool for School, Neogen, Amorepacific and Son & Park, and no longer highlights its K-beauty section on its homepage. Amorepacific’s profits plunged by 28.5 percent in 2022. Even upstarts like Glow Recipe and Hero Cosmetics, that once traded on being K-beauty-inspired brands, stopped using the term in their marketing and communications.

An Influencer-Led Renaissance

It’s not the multi-step routine tutorials — which were the hallmark of 2010s K-beauty — driving the category’s comeback. Instead, it’s individual viral product crazes sparked by influencers and celebrities.

K-beauty sunscreens with formulas that don’t have a white cast, for example, have been a hit with influencers. Innisfree’s Daily UV Defense sunscreen, which went viral on TikTok, was explicitly cited as one of the top-selling products driving Amorepacific Group’s North America growth this year. Beauty of Joseon’s Relief Sun sunscreen has received 587 million views on TikTok, driven by influencers like Ava Lee, who is working on a collaboration with the brand planned for release in 2024. While the product is not yet approved by the FDA for sale in the US, customers have tried to find workarounds, ordering from cross-border websites or unverified Amazon sellers.

Meanwhile, Laneige is seeing double-digit sales growth in the US, said Bouzitat. The brand has been a hit on TikTok for the past two years thanks in part to its ASMR product videos and high-profile brand ambassador, “Euphoria” actress Sydney Sweeney. The efforts the brand has made on TikTok are part of a broader North America marketing push on the part of Amorepacific Group, which also launched a rebrand campaign for luxury brand Sulwhasoo this year. The company also returned to profitability in the second quarter of 2023, reporting that overseas revenue grew 27 percent, boosted by 105 percent growth in North America.

Unlike prestige predecessors, affordable K-beauty brands have become a draw for TikTok’s dupe-obsessed young shoppers. Beauty influencer Stephanie Valentine, known on TikTok as Glamzilla, prompted a sell out of Innisfree’s Dewy Glow Moisturizer when she offered it as a dupe for Tatcha’s Dewy Skin Cream Plumping & Hydrating Moisturizer. Within 48 hours, the item sold out at Sephora US and Canada as well as on the brand’s website.

“Innovation, no matter what category you’re talking about, clients are going to always be excited about that,” said Ullman. “Korean skin care is such an innovative player, so as long as they keep coming out with new formats, new textures, new ways to talk about skin care, there’s opportunity.”

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The Korean glass skin trend saw a 134 percent year-over-year growth on TikTok, with products such as Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence becoming best-sellers on Amazon.

The focus on product efficacy and affordable prices has been a major factor in the resurgence of K-beauty, with brands such as Innisfree and Laneige seeing significant growth in sales.

The influence of Hallyu, the Korean wave, has also played a significant role in the growth of the Korean skin care market, with the purchase of K-beauty brands by major companies such as L'Oréal and Estée Lauder Companies being a notable example.

However, the decline in sales of Dr. Jart+ in 2023 after its purchase by Estée Lauder Companies is a notable exception, highlighting the challenges faced by K-beauty brands in maintaining their popularity and relevance.

Overall, the popularity of Korean skin care can be attributed to its unique philosophy, which emphasizes a gentle approach and nourishing ingredients, as well as its effective and affordable products, which have been able to tap into the growing demand for efficacious and convenient skin care solutions.

The use of social media platforms such as TikTok has also played a significant role in the growth of the Korean skin care market, with the platform providing a convenient and effective way for brands to reach and engage with their target audience.

The incorporation of traditional Korean medicine ingredients and the emphasis on sun protection and preventative measures are also key factors in the popularity of Korean skin care, setting it apart from traditional Western skin care products.

The focus on hydration and soothing ingredients over harsh exfoliants is also a notable feature of Korean skin care, making it a desirable choice for consumers looking for gentle and effective skin care solutions.

In conclusion, the continuing popularity of Korean skin care in the beauty industry can be attributed to its unique philosophy, effective and affordable products, and the use of social media platforms to reach and engage with its target audience.