Here are the key nuggets of information, summarized and focused on your linguistic topic of borrowings, sociopolitical context, and attempts at linguistic regulation:

- Language is deeply tied to identity, culture, and worldview; losing a language means losing unique human knowledge and perspectives (e.g., the story of gradual loss of Czech).

- English has a dominant global role, often sidelining other languages—policies to "go beyond English" are critical for cultural preservation (as with University of Queensland’s conservation perspective).

- AI technologies (like translation models) are cheaper and more effective for English, partly because training data is heavily skewed toward English, which further reinforces its dominance and marginalizes other languages.

- There is concern about the lack of institutional/global support for translating works from languages of the Global South; translation fellowship programs view expanding beyond dominant languages as necessary but under-resourced.

- Language is not just communication but shapes how people connect, and inhibits or facilitates participation in global or local affairs; thus, loss or lack of support for minority languages impacts personal and community identity.

- Vibrant language evolution occurs in close communities (familects), but standardization and dominance of a language like English can overshadow this natural dynamism.

- Grassroots revitalization efforts (like indigenous language apps for Hoocąk in Wisconsin) show how communities counteract language loss in the face of dominance by English and technology.

- Literature is a key tool in language classrooms for fostering empathy and cultural understanding, showing that language policies that limit borrowings and foreign influences can affect more than just vocabulary—they influence worldview and intercultural sensitivity.

Here are the key nuggets of information, summarized and focused on your linguistic topic of borrowings, sociopolitical context, and attempts at linguistic regulation:

- Language is deeply tied to identity, culture, and worldview; losing a language means losing unique human knowledge and perspectives (e.g., the story of gradual loss of Czech).

Title:

Content: News | The Economist reads

Our language columnist, Johnson, picks five of his favourite recent reads

This is a golden age for good books about every facet of language

FOR A LONG time popular books about language were dominated by cranky editors airing pet peeves and wondering where it all went wrong, while academic linguists wrote impenetrable papers and struggled to explain their work to the public. Then, a couple of decades ago, bestselling books like Steven Pinker’s “The Language Instinct” (1994) and John McWhorter’s “The Power of Babel” (2001) convinced more linguists to try their hand at writing for a non-expert audience. This in turn raised the quality of books by non-linguists. The cranks no longer rule, and it is a golden age for good books about every facet of language.

Memory Speaks. By Julie Sedivy. Belknap Press; 368 pages; $29.95 and £23.95

Julie Sedivy moved from Czechoslovakia to Canada as a small child, and hence far from the home of her first language. Her tale of the gradual loss of her Czech, and her adult work to recover it, is not only beautifully told. It is also packed with a tour of the science on bilingualism, in which she is an expert, as well as the controversial topic of how one’s native language influences thought. As if that were not enough for this fascinating book, she embeds herself within the fight to prevent indigenous North American languages from disappearing entirely, and illuminates what is lost when a language dies. As Johnson I assessed the book, and the painful loss of native languages, early in 2022.

You Talkin’ to Me? By E.J. White. Oxford University Press; 216 pages; $19.95 and £14.99

In many countries, people are taught to revere and even strive to emulate the educated speech of their grandest city. Think of Parisian French. Not so the English of New York. On screen, for example, it is reserved for gangsters or wise-cracking sidekicks (why does the parrot in “Aladdin” have a New York accent?), never for heroes (such as Captain America, whose Brooklyn origins are inaudible in his speech in the Marvel films). That was not always so. Both presidents Roosevelt had an upper-class New York accent once considered respectable. Its disappearance is a tale of immigration and the relocation of an imaginary “real America” to the Midwest, rather than its world-bestriding metropolis. Johnson reflected on the book late in 2020.

What the F: What Swearing Reveals about our Language, Our Brains and Ourselves. By Benjamin K. Bergen. Basic Books; 288 pages; $10.99

Your pulse speeds up, and your palms start to sweat ever so slightly, upon hearing a swear word. People can tolerate more pain if allowed to cuss, and many victims of strokes and brain injuries lose all speech but the taboo variety. The words in question may be avoided in polite company, but they make for a fascinating scientific study by Benjamin Bergen, a cognitive scientist. Of the main sources of swear words, some are losing their bite (those concerning religion, for example) while some still hurt (slurs, especially). But Mr Bergen examines the claims of harm from swear words overall (America seems to regulate them more than guns), and dismantles them skilfully. Swearing is a core part of human life. To be used with care, but not to be abjured. Johnson wrote about the book, and weapons of crass construction, a few years ago.

The Prodigal Tongue. By Lynne Murphy. Penguin Books; 368 pages; $17. Oneworld; £16.99

Lynne Murphy is a linguist at the University of Sussex, married to a British husband and raising British children. But she is American, and years of experiencing polite (and sometimes not-so-polite) commentary about her native English in her adopted home prompted her to write this myth-shredding book about the relationship between British and American English. She is not a partisan of either, but in her close examinations of beloved beliefs she finds some that hold (Britons really do say “please” and “sorry” a lot) and many that do not. Time after time, for example, she shows that a perceived “Americanism” deprecated in Britain emerged there. You can listen to our interview with the author (first released late in 2018).

How We Talk. By N.J. Enfield. Basic Books; 272 pages; $30

Interruptions, “uh”, “um” and sentences beginning with “So,” are all considered bad linguistic form. But it seems odd that so many people would display such linguistic ineptitude. As a result, linguists like to investigate what functions and causes these behaviours have. A great introduction to the study is “How We Talk” by N.J. Enfield, who describes what he calls the “conversational machine”. Speakers take turns with only split-second pauses, which requires them to pay careful attention to each other; “um” and “uh” thus play a role in holding the floor. These and other mechanisms fill a surprisingly brisk book about elements of language most people disdain—when they think about them at all. Johnson, er, considered the topic and the book in 2017.

_______________

Johnson, who speaks nine languages, writes a regular column about language in the weekly edition of The Economist and helps update its official style guide. He is also the author of two books of his own:

You Are What You Speak. By Lane Greene. 336 pages. Delacorte Press; 336 pages; $25

On language and the politics of identity. An analysis of the politics and mythology of language

Talk on the Wild Side. By Lane Greene. PublicAffairs; 240 pages; $26. Profile Books; £14.99

On the untameable but robust nature of language

Do you have your own recommendations? Send them to [email protected] with the subject line “Language” and your name, city and country. We will publish a selection of readers’ suggestions.

- English has a dominant global role, often sidelining other languages—policies to "go beyond English" are critical for cultural preservation (as with University of Queensland’s conservation perspective).

Title:

Content: advertisement
Science News
from research organizations

Going beyond English is critical for conservation

Date:
March 21, 2023
Source:
University of Queensland
Summary:
Research in languages other than English is critically important for biodiversity conservation and is shockingly under-utilized internationally, according to an international research team.
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FULL STORY

Research in languages other than English is critically important for biodiversity conservation and is shockingly under-utilised internationally, according to an international research team.

Dr Tatsuya Amano, from The University of Queensland's School of Biological Sciences, led a worldwide study that investigated national reports on biodiversity conservation in 37 countries and territories where English is not an official language.

"Non-English-language literature is almost entirely neglected in global biodiversity assessments," Dr Amano said.

"This means there's a serious risk that the world's existing global assessments overlook important conservation science by ignoring non-English-language literature.

"For example, in the Intergovernmental Science-Policy Platform on Biodiversity and Ecosystem Services (IPBES) reports, only 3.4 per cent of references are those published in non-English languages -- a shockingly low figure.

The team found that non-English-language literature was extensively used in the national reports of most individual countries, but had failed to be reflected in global reports.

Dr Tatsuya said, despite the benefits of a common language, having diversity of input was essential to saving the world's species.

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"English has been used as the common language of science for decades and this makes international communication much easier," he said.

"But so much research in the biodiversity conservation space is still being published in other languages too.

"Ignoring it could be a big issue, as we often don't know much about what to conserve and how to conserve it."

The team suggest that further international collaboration is essential to developing more effective conservation science, and therefore more effective policy interventions.

"Our research project is a great example of how cross-language, international collaborations can lead to better scientific outcomes," Dr Amano said.

"We've collaborated with over 100 people, who are collectively native speakers of about 20 languages, to identify important science available only in non-English languages.

"The use of machine translation tools would also help solve this problem more broadly, but it still would require validation by human native speakers.

"And developing multilingual databases of relevant literature is also effective, just like we did in a recent paper, in collaboration with the Conservation Evidence project.

"With these approaches, the world would be able to use the best scientific knowledge available, regardless of the language in which it is published."

Story Source:

Materials provided by University of Queensland. Note: Content may be edited for style and length.

Journal Reference:

  1. Tatsuya Amano, Violeta Berdejo-Espinola, Munemitsu Akasaka, Milton A. U. de Andrade Junior, Ndayizeye Blaise, Julia Checco, F. Gözde Çilingir, Geoffroy Citegetse, Marina Corella Tor, Szymon M. Drobniak, Sylvaine Giakoumi, Marina Golivets, Mihaela C. Ion, Javiera P. Jara-Díaz, Ryosuke Katayose, Felicia P. S. Lasmana, Hsien-Yung Lin, Erick Lopez, Peter Mikula, Lucia Morales-Barquero, Anne-Christine Mupepele, Juan P. Narváez-Gómez, Thi Hieu Nguyen, Sá Nogueira Lisboa, Martin A. Nuñez, Diego Pavón-Jordán, Patrice Pottier, Graham W. Prescott, Farah Samad, Marko Šćiban, Hae-Min Seo, Yushin Shinoda, Flóra Vajna, Svetlana Vozykova, Jessica C. Walsh, Alison K. S. Wee, Hui Xiao, Veronica Zamora-Gutierrez. The role of non-English-language science in informing national biodiversity assessments. Nature Sustainability, 2023; DOI: 10.1038/s41893-023-01087-8

Cite This Page:

University of Queensland. "Going beyond English is critical for conservation." ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 21 March 2023. <www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2023/03/230321112517.htm>.
University of Queensland. (2023, March 21). Going beyond English is critical for conservation. ScienceDaily. Retrieved September 24, 2023 from www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2023/03/230321112517.htm
University of Queensland. "Going beyond English is critical for conservation." ScienceDaily. www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2023/03/230321112517.htm (accessed September 24, 2023).

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- AI technologies (like translation models) are cheaper and more effective for English, partly because training data is heavily skewed toward English, which further reinforces its dominance and marginalizes other languages.

Title:

Content: AI Usage Fees Up to 15x Cheaper for English Than Other Languages

The language you're using for a Large Language Model (LLM) can have a huge effect on its cost and create an AI divide between English speakers and the rest of the world. A recent study shows that, due to the way services like OpenAI, measure and bill for server costs, English-language inputs and outputs are much cheaper than those in other languages with Simplified Chinese costing about twice as much, Spanishing costing 1.5x the price and Shan language going for 15 times more.

Twitter user Dylan Patel (@dlan522p) shared a photograph that leads to research conducted by the University of Oxford which found that asking an LLM to process a Burmese-written sentence cost 198 tokens, while that same sentence in English cost just 17 tokens. Tokens representing the computing power cost of accessing an LLM through an API (such as OpenAI's ChatGPT or Anthropic's Claude 2), this means the Burmese sentence cost 11 times more through the service than the one written in English.

See more

The tokenization model (which sees AI companies convert user input into computational cost) means that in a less-than-ideal world, models accessed outside the window of English language are much more expensive to access and train on. That's because languages such as Chinese have a different, more complex structure (either grammatically or by number of characters) than English, which results in their higher rate of tokenization.

For example, according to OpenAI's GPT3 tokenizer, giving someone a token of "your affection" would be just two tokens in English but eight tokens in Simplified Chinese. This is true even though the Simplified Chinese text is just 4 characters (你的爱意) and the English one is 14 characters. Aleksandar Petrov et al's Tokenization Fairness page has a number of charts and tools you can use to see the disparity between languages.

OpenAI itself has a pretty helpful page explaining how it monetizes API access and usage of its ChatGPT model, which even includes access to a tokenizer tool that you can use to test the token cost per prompt. There, we see that 1 token is around 4 characters in English, and that 100 tokens would be around 75 English words. But that math just can't be applied to any other language, as OpenAI clearly puts it

There's really no competition against the cost-effectiveness of English in AI-related costs; Chinese, for example, costs twice as much as English in terms of required tokens per output. But it's simply a reflection of the available training data that AI companies have (until now) used to train their models on. If there's one thing the AI explosion has done for the world is show just how valuable high-quality emergent data (that which is created as a record of life) really is.

This issue directly links with AI companies' desire to achieve recursive training, or the ability to train AI models on their own outputs. If that's achieved, then future models will still show the same cost-effectiveness of English compared to other languages whose complexity and more limited availability of base training data. And when that happens, it's not just this vicious cycle of algorithmic bigotry we have to contend with: it's also that for now, research points to AI networks going MAD when trained over five times on their own outputs (synthetic data).

To further complicate the issue, it seems that other ways of quantifying costs (other than tokenization) would end up running into the same problems. Either via bit or character-counting, apparently no language can beat the pragmatic practicality of English - it would still present lower costs due to its inherently higher "compressibility" into a lower token count.

That means the issue isn't in the way models have been monetized; it's an actual limitation of the technology and base models considered for training. And it should be no surprise to know the issue impacts multiple language models across their versions. They're all built mostly the same, after all.

This issue looks like a predictable one when we consider that the companies actually introducing Large Language Models (such as ChatGPT) or Generative Image networks (such as Midjourney) are mostly based in America. Lower usage costs and higher availability of quality data comes with the territory, in a way.

This cost difference has already led to a number of countries launching their own initiatives to train and deploy a native-language LLM. Both China and India have done so, and both claimed the same thing: that their plans were needed to accompany the pace of innovation allowed by English-based AI networks. And that rate is mostly limited by access and training costs.

It's only natural that everyone is looking to pay as little as possible for as much as possible; and these dynamics directly affect the cost of LLM training and deployment according to the base language. It's almost like this AI business is so complex, and its consequences so far-reaching, we have to be very careful with every little step we take.

Freelance News Writer

Francisco Pires is a freelance news writer for Tom's Hardware with a soft side for quantum computing.

- There is concern about the lack of institutional/global support for translating works from languages of the Global South; translation fellowship programs view expanding beyond dominant languages as necessary but under-resourced.

Title:

Content: Hindustantimes wants to start sending you push notifications. Click allow to subscribe

Interview: Niraja Gopal Jayal, Trustee, New India Foundation

The NIF’s Translation Fellowship programme announced earlier this month aims to make important works of non-fiction written in regional languages accessible to a more diverse audience
By Simar Bhasin
UPDATED ON AUG 20, 2021 06:27 PM IST

What’s the story behind the NIF translation fellowship programme?

The translation fellowship programme is actually a logical outgrowth of the book-writing fellowships programme, which as you know is the flagship activity of the New India Foundation, aimed at nurturing high-quality scholarship on post-independence India. The first continuity between them then is the focus on modern Indian history, society and politics. However, while the book-writing fellowships are about India after 1947, the qualifying period for the translation fellowships is twentieth century India, even the late nineteenth century depending on the text. This is because there are many important works in Indian languages that could illuminate the longer period but to which readers of the English language, or indeed of other Indian languages, would not have access.

Secondly, the NIF has supported at least one translation as part of its book-writing fellowship programme. This was Ayesha Kidwai’s translation, with a superb introduction, of her grandmother Anis Kidwai’s book Azadi ki Chaaon Mein, which was published by Penguin in 2011, with the English title In Freedom’s Shade. At least two other books by NIF Fellows draw heavily upon sources and literature in regional languages – Akshay Mukul’s The Gita Press and the Making of Hindu India and SV Srinivas’s Politics as Performance: Social History of the Telugu Film Industry. Both these books, about different forms of cultural production, are deeply anchored in, respectively, Hindi and Telugu.

Tell us about the selection process? What are you looking for in applications?

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We are looking for proposals that bring together interesting books and good translators. This year, in the first round, we are inviting applications for translations from 10 languages: Hindi, Urdu, Bangla, Kannada, Assamese, Gujarati, Marathi, Odia, Malayalam and Tamil. The deadline for applications is December 31, 2021. The applications – which must include a sample translation - will be assessed by language experts, on the basis of which the shortlist will be compiled, followed by interviews and the selection of three Fellows.

We propose to constitute a Language Expert Committee, with one member for each of the three selected proposals, who will mentor the Fellows and help them structure and shape their work. We see these works as being on par with the other Fellowship projects in terms of their scholarly merit. We expect them to have a comprehensive introduction that provides the social, political and cultural context of the work, thorough annotations and a bibliography that could help the reader explore the terrain further.

Are there any caveats as to the texts that may be chosen for translation?

No fiction, no poetry, no drama. The focus will be on history (including social and cultural history), politics, society, biography, memoirs, and so forth.

What according to you are some of the challenges facing translators linguistically when it comes to expounding ideas contained in regional texts into the English language?

Ideally, any translation should be able to stand on its own, approximating the excellence of an original work. This is why translation is typically viewed as an art, rather than something mechanical. For this, translators have to be imaginative in how they render into English ideas or nuances that may be specific to the language with which they are working. Cultural differences can pose a challenge to translators who need not just felicity in the two languages they are working with, but also familiarity with the world of sociocultural meanings in both – else you can fall into the ‘lost in translation’ syndrome!

There is, of course, a very rich scholarly field of translation studies, with debates on language as identity, the politics of language, authenticity, and so on.

Do you feel that the outcomes of this fellowship will challenge and disrupt the conception of largely West-oriented notions of what constitutes a liberal public sphere?

That is not the driving motivation of the fellowship, but it could potentially do so, depending of course on the texts. Introducing readers to works in different languages should certainly contribute to an appreciation of the rich diversity of languages in our country; to recover indigenous debates on ideas that we have encountered only through the western canon; to encourage us to embrace our natural bilingualism, and perhaps also to value multilingualism.

Do you think that there is a lack of institutional support to translation projects from languages of the global South? What is required to encourage such projects?

I can’t speak to the global South, but certainly there is a lack of support for translation projects in the Indian languages. Quite a lot of fiction finds translation. As far as non-fiction goes, there is the Murthy Classical Library of India which has brought us fabulous English translations of great classics from the past two millennia. There is also the National Translation Mission that commissions translations, mainly of textbooks. The translation fellowships of the NIF represent a new beginning in a field that we believe has been largely neglected so far.

In its present form, the fellowship focuses on works of non-fiction in 10 languages. Are there any plans for more languages and for fiction works also to be included in the near future?

As of now, we envisage an expansion of the languages in the second round to include, for instance, Punjabi, Konkani, Manipuri, Bhojpuri, etc. We do not have plans to include fiction.

At the end of the fellowship, will all of the projects be published and available to a global audience?

Publication is the objective. As with the book writing fellowships, we would connect Fellows to publishers. We already provide in-house editorial help to our Fellows to shape and polish manuscripts into their final form, and this would be available to the translation Fellows as well.

To know more about the translation fellowships: https://www.newindiafoundation.org/nif-translation-fellowship

For queries, write to info@newindiafoundation.org

The link to apply : https://translationfellowships.paperform.co/

Simar Bhasin is an independent journalist. She lives in New Delhi.

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- Language is not just communication but shapes how people connect, and inhibits or facilitates participation in global or local affairs; thus, loss or lack of support for minority languages impacts personal and community identity.

- Vibrant language evolution occurs in close communities (familects), but standardization and dominance of a language like English can overshadow this natural dynamism.

- Grassroots revitalization efforts (like indigenous language apps for Hoocąk in Wisconsin) show how communities counteract language loss in the face of dominance by English and technology.

Title:

Content: Hoocąk language organization preserves Indigenous culture

Language division offers services, apps to teach people to speak Hoocąk

· Oct 5, 2023 Tweet

Abby Cima/The Badger Herald

Of the nearly 8,000 enrolled members in the Ho-Chunk Nation, there are currently less than 40 who can speak the Ho-Chunk language (also anglicized as Hoocąk). This is due to past removals and relocations of Indigenous Americans, Hoocąk Waaziija Haci Language Division Program Manager Adrienne Thunder said.

According to The National Native American Boarding School Healing Coalition, between 1869 and the 1960s, the American government sent Indigenous children to more than 350 Indian boarding schools. Students at these schools were forced to assimilate to a Westernized way of life. Several decades later, the repercussions of these institutions are evident through the dwindling number of Hoocąk speakers, according to NNABSHC.

Organizations like the Hoocąk Waazija Haci Language Division are working to change that. According to the division’s website, the group offers a range of programs including an online Hoocąk Academy, a Hoocąk language apprenticeship program and classes for local high schools. But these programs have a limited reach.

“I would say most families probably don’t have direct access to someone who can speak the language very well,” Thunder said. “And so even with our instructors, the ones that we have right now, it’s hard to reach everyone.”

Chancellor Mnookin talks housing, mental health, sustainability with ASMThe Associated Students of Madison Student Council met with UW Chancellor Jennifer Mnookin, Vice Chancellor Lori Reesor and Dean of Read…

There are only about a dozen instructors for the 3,500 Hoocąk tribal members in Wisconsin, which makes covering the language and cultural education difficult. Additionally, not everyone can take the classes when they are offered, which compounds the challenge of preserving the Hoocąk language, Thunder said.

In response, the division has partnered with The Language Conservancy, a non-profit organization dedicated to saving endangered Indigenous languages, to expand the division’s virtual Hoocąk dictionary, Thunder said. These forms include a public website and app.

Also in development is an E-learning app for individuals to learn and speak Hoocąk. The plan is for the beta version of the app to be released this fall, with the final product set to release sometime this winter, Thunder said.

Thunder said the purpose of the app is to provide a base for individuals to start with Hoocąk. This could generate more interest and give people some information to work with before needing to work with an instructor.

“We’re hoping this gives people something to work with, and to be able to help them learn to the point where if they’re ready for further learning, then we have instructors who will be able to pick up from there or to be able to enhance their own instruction with the use of the app,” Thunder said.

While there are native speakers that can convey this immersive oral experience, Director of the University of Wisconsin American Indian and Indigenous Studies program Denise Wiyaka said that to teach a course on campus, instructors usually need a master’s degree.

“Most of the native speakers don’t have college degrees,” Wiyaka said. “And so we sometimes will pair them with somebody who does, we’ve done that in the past — paired them with a person who does have a PhD or Master’s [degree] and they’ll co-teach the course then, but it’s hard to find people with a Master’s who can teach.”

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UW’s AIIS program offers five Indigenous languages including Hoocąk as well as a certificate in which students can take classes about the literature, culture and folklore of American Indian Groups. Wiyak said that though the majority of students in these classes are Native American students, the number of non-Native students interested in learning Indigenous languages is increasing.

For these students, Wiyaka said the value for apps like the one the Hoocąk Waazija Haci Language Division is developing and believes they align with the evolution of teaching.

“I think it’s a tool for learning,” Wiyaka said. “So I think having an app is a good idea. And I think a lot of tribes are going that route. Because you know, everybody has a phone with apps on it.”

Wiyaka also said it is important to preserve native languages in order to preserve culture that has been passed down. Through events such as the Annual Evening of American Indian Storytelling, the AIIS program highlights the importance of having native speakers speak to students in their native tongues. During the event, elders from tribes all over the world are invited to narrate and act out stories in their native languages while being translated into English. By hearing and seeing stories acted and spoken out in their original form, listeners are able to gain a deeper understanding and appreciation for the preservation of Indigenous languages, Wiyaka said.

According to Thunder, the biggest difference between Hoocąk and English is the descriptiveness of the languages. Compared to English, Hoocąk is much more dimensional and offers a more immersive experience due to what are known as positionals. Positionals provide insights into the orientation of actions and are added to the end of a sentence to inform the reader of the position of the subject.

The work done by the Hoocąk Waazija Haci Language Division Program as well as the UW AIIS program are steps toward a revitalization of the Hoocąk language around Wisconsin. For Thunder, this means keeping the Hoocąk’s relationships and connections alive through spoken word.

“All of that history — all of those relationships, all of those events, everything is encapsulated in our language,” Thunder said. “And so I just think it’s important that we try to keep that going as long as possible to continue to tell those stories.”

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This article was published Oct 5, 2023 at 9:00 am and last updated Oct 1, 2023 at 11:09 am

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- Literature is a key tool in language classrooms for fostering empathy and cultural understanding, showing that language policies that limit borrowings and foreign influences can affect more than just vocabulary—they influence worldview and intercultural sensitivity.

Title:

Content: Education

Of language and literature

What are the pros and cons of using literature in the language classroom? | Photo Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto

Recently, an English language teacher asked whether it is necessary to teach the English language through literature. Even before I could respond and express my views on whether it is important to include literary texts such as poems, short stories and one-act plays in teaching English as a second language (ESL), she bombarded me with a few more questions: Shouldn’t we teach functional English to our students and help our students develop their communication skills? What is the use of teaching literature? Can the study of literature help students develop their language skills?

This debate about whether to use literature in the ELT classroom or to focus only on the communication/functional aspect has been going for about half a century. Arguments for and against the topic have been discussed in many English Language Teaching (ELT) conferences and numerous articles related to the topic have been published in various journals. The use of literature became less popular ever since some ELT practitioners started raising questions about the relevance of literature and the need for focusing on the functional aspects of the language. In this context, it is important to find answers to these questions: What is the purpose of teaching/learning a language? Should learners of English be taught only functional English? What is our understanding of literature? What are the pros and cons of using literature in the language classroom? Do language teachers need to teach only language skills or should they go beyond language teaching?

Communicative competence

The main purpose of teaching any language is to help learners develop their communicative competence, which is the “knowledge of the language structure as well as social knowledge regarding these structures, and the ability to use the language appropriately in a variety of contexts” (Hymes, 1979). In other words, a person who has communicative competence is not only proficient in the four major language skills (listening, speaking, reading and writing) but also knows how to speak appropriately and effectively in different contexts.

Language teachers can help learners develop their communicative competence in many ways. Krashen’s Comprehensible Input Hypothesis, for example, states that “meaningful and motivating input that is just slightly beyond their current level of linguistic competence but sufficiently comprehensible for the learner to understand” can help learners acquire the language. Krashen also talks about Compelling Input Hypothesis, which states that the input needs to be not just interesting but compelling. This can be in the form of reading materials (novels, stories, plays, anecdotes, etc.), listening material (radio talks, conversations, dialogues, etc.) or videos and films.

In the 21st century, the role of the English language teacher is not limited to helping learners improve their linguistic and communication skills. They are expected to help students develop many other skills including creative and critical thinking while teaching the target language. Therefore, teachers need to use a variety of materials in the English classroom. In this context, textbook writers and teachers should know what sort of “compelling” materials or literary texts can be used to motivate students and enable them to develop not only their linguistic and communication skills but also the 4Cs of communication, collaboration, creativity and critical thinking.

Different forms of literature

Literature means different things to different people. Some think that literature is only for dreamers and it does not have any practical value or great significance; others think that literature reflects life and it is a powerful tool to understand various aspects and mysteries of life. Literature is “writing with lasting artistic, cultural, and/or intellectual value”. Today, in the age of visual media, visual literacy, defined as the ability to understand and create images, not only writing but speeches and different kinds of visual content such as films and documentaries that have artistic, cultural and/or intellectual value can be treated as literature.

There are many reasons why it is important to expose students to different types of literature. Literature mirrors life and is a reflection of humanity. It teaches them the philosophy of life; helps them understand and appreciate their own culture and that of other people, understand people and enhances their empathy, and have a different worldview. It has an everlasting value. Goethe, the German literary giant, rightly said that "The decline of literature indicates the decline of a nation.”

Literary texts such as poems, one-act plays, short stories, popular fiction, and lyrics have the potential to provide rich linguistic input and to enhance learner motivation to read, reflect and discuss. For example, quotes from John Keats’ poem Endymion (“A thing of beauty is a joy for ever”) or Shelley’s “Ode to the West Wind” (“If winter comes, can spring be far behind?”) or from or J. Krishnamurti’s statement, “It is beautiful to be alone. To be alone does not mean to be lonely. It means the mind is not influenced and contaminated by society” can stimulate discussion and help generate fresh ideas.

Literature can also be used effectively to develop 21st century skills. As literary texts are representational and not referential, they help learners use their imagination and develop their creative and critical thinking. By studying characters in plays, short stories and novels, analysing arguments, making inferences and solving problems students can develop their critical thinking skills.

English language teachers (ELTs) should know that literature has the potential to enrich the lives of those who fall in love with it. By using literature in the English classroom, ELTs can help learners not only develop their language skills and communicative competence but also enrich their lives.

The writer is an English Language Teaching (ELT) resource person and education columnist. rayanal@yahoo.co.uk

Our code of editorial values

Printable version | Jun 11, 2022 12:44:20 pm | https://www.thehindu.com/education/of-language-and-literature/article65506279.ece


Here are the key summarized nuggets from the provided extracts, encapsulating the current status and ongoing popularity of Korean skin care worldwide:

**1.

Diverse and Tailored Solutions:**
Korean skin care brands offer a vast array of products targeted at all skin types (oily, dry, sensitive, combination).

Their product lines are formulated to address specific concerns like acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, dullness, and hydration.

Innovative Ingredients and Technologies:**
Popular brands such as COSRX incorporate unique active ingredients such as snail mucin, Centella Asiatica, AHAs/BHAs, propolis, and specialized acids.

Korean products often incorporate newer skincare trends (e.g., "skin flooding," "double moisturizing") and multitasking products that deliver hydration and nourishment.

Government & Industry Investment:**
Korean skin care’s global leadership is partly attributed to active support and investment from the Korean government, fostering rapid product innovation and advanced research in cosmetics.

Gentle Approach & Minimalist Formulations:**
The Korean philosophy emphasizes a gentle, non-irritating approach, distinguishing itself by using milder ingredients and less aggressive treatments compared to many traditional Western products.

Accessibility & Value:**
K-beauty products are lauded for exceptional value—offering high-quality, concentrated formulas at accessible prices.

They often last longer due to less dilution and cost less, appealing especially to cost-conscious consumers.

Customizable, Multi-Step Routines:**
While the multi-step routines can seem overwhelming, Korean skin care promotes customizable regimens to suit individual needs.

Products like emulsions, serums, and essences allow bespoke layering, but the trend of "skinimalism" now also supports streamlined routines.

Strategic packaging design, branding collaborations, and fast sell-outs at large retailers (e.g., Sephora) boost desirability.

Here are the key summarized nuggets from the provided extracts, encapsulating the current status and ongoing popularity of Korean skin care worldwide:

**1.

Title:

Content: What is an emulsion and how should it be added to skincare? Explore all the skin benefits of this Korean beauty trend

An emulsion in skincare refers to a lightweight, water-based moisturizer that typically contains a blend of water and oil components. It is a key step in many skincare routines, especially in Korean beauty regimens. They are designed to provide hydration, nourishment, and moisture to the skin without being overly heavy or greasy. They play a crucial role in maintaining skin balance, particularly for individuals with combination or oily skin.

Emulsions in skincare are celebrated for their versatility and compatibility with various skin types. Their formulation strikes a delicate balance, offering both water and oil elements to cater to the diverse needs of the skin.

This balance is particularly advantageous for individuals with combination skin, as these blends can simultaneously hydrate dry areas and control excess oil in others.

The lightweight nature of these blends makes them an essential component in Korean beauty routines, where layering multiple products is a common practice. This step allows users to customize their skincare regimen, addressing specific concerns without burdening the skin with heavy formulations.

How emulsions can be of benefit

They play a pivotal role in fostering a harmonious relationship between hydration and nourishment, contributing to a radiant and well-maintained complexion.

Here's how they work and how they should be added to a skincare routine:

Composition of emulsions:

  1. Water and Oil Blend: these blends contain a balance of water and oil components, usually stabilized by emulsifying agents. This composition makes them suitable for a wide range of skin types.
  2. Lightweight Texture: these blends are lighter than traditional creams and lotions, making them ideal for individuals who want hydration without a heavy feel on the skin.

How to use emulsions in a skincare routine:

  1. Cleansing: Start with a gentle cleanser to clean your face.
  2. Toner: Follow up with a toner to balance the skin's pH levels.
  3. Serum (if applicable): Apply any serums targeting specific skincare concerns.
  4. Emulsion: Apply the mixture as a lightweight moisturizer. Dispense an appropriate amount and gently spread it over your face and neck.
  5. Sunscreen (Daytime): In the morning, finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
  6. Night Cream (Nighttime): In the evening, you may choose to follow the mixture with a slightly heavier night cream if your skin needs extra nourishment.

Skin benefits of emulsions in Korean beauty:

  1. Hydration: these blends provide a boost of hydration to the skin, helping to maintain moisture levels.
  2. Nourishment: The oil component in these blends delivers essential nutrients to the skin, promoting a healthy complexion.
  3. Lightweight Texture: Ideal for those who prefer a lightweight feel on the skin, making them suitable for daytime use.
  4. Sebum Control: these mixtures can help regulate excess sebum production, making them beneficial for individuals with oily or combination skin.
  5. Layering: In the multi-step Korean skincare routine, these mixtures serve as a versatile layer between serums and heavier creams.
  6. Preventing Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL): The emollient properties of these blends help create a barrier on the skin, reducing water loss.
  7. Enhanced Absorption: Applying these blends before heavier creams or occlusive products can enhance the absorption of active ingredients.

It's important to note that skincare is highly individual, and what works for one person may not work for another. It's advisable to patch-test new products and observe how your skin responds.

Adjust the use of the mixture based on your skin's needs, climate, and personal preferences.

Quick Links

Edited by Prem Deshpande

Diverse and Tailored Solutions:**
Korean skin care brands offer a vast array of products targeted at all skin types (oily, dry, sensitive, combination).

Title:

Content: What's Hot

The Best Korean Skin Care Product Brands For 2024

K-beauty products have slowly risen to trend, becoming bestsellers on almost all e-commerce platforms. So what is all the hype about? Let us break it down for you along with the best Korean skin care brands below.

Best Skin Care Product Brands Photo: Amazon

Korean people are renowned for their sought-after "glass skin" appearance. With a growing emphasis on skin health, many consumers are turning to the best Korean skincare products for its use of natural ingredients such as ginseng and rice water, along with reliable staples like retinol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides. From cleansers and moisturisers to face masks and serums, Korean skincare brands provide options for every budget and skin type.

Be it if you have oily, dry, sensitive, or combination skin, Korean brands offer a diverse range of products tailored to address specific issues like acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, and hydration. This versatility has made Korean skincare a favourite among beauty enthusiasts seeking effective solutions at various price points.

To simplify your search for the ideal skincare regimen, we've curated a list of some of the best Korean skincare products and brands below.

Whether you prioritise gentle formulations, anti-aging benefits, or hydration, these recommendations will help you discover a brand that aligns perfectly with your skincare needs and goals. Explore the world of Korean skincare and achieve radiant, healthy-looking skin with products trusted by millions worldwide.

How to choose the best Korean skincare products

  • Identify Your Skin Type: Determine whether your skin is oily, dry, combination, sensitive, or acne-prone. Korean skincare offers targeted products for each type.

  • Understand Your Skin Concerns: Whether it's acne, aging signs, hyperpigmentation, or dehydration, prioritise products designed to address your specific concerns.

  • Read Ingredient Lists: Look for key ingredients like hyaluronic acid for hydration, niacinamide for brightening, and tea tree oil for acne-prone skin. Avoid products with potentially irritating ingredients if you have sensitive skin.

  • Consider Product Texture: Choose textures that suit your preferences and needs—whether lightweight gels for oily skin or rich creams for dry skin.

  • Check for Certifications: Look for certifications like K-Beauty or EWG Verified, ensuring products meet certain safety and quality standards.

  • Trial Sizes and Patch Tests: Start with trial sizes or samples when possible to test compatibility with your skin. Conduct patch tests to avoid adverse reactions.

  • Create a Routine: Build a comprehensive skincare routine that includes cleansing, toning, treating (with serums or essences), moisturising, and sun protection, tailored to your skin's needs and concerns.

How we chose these brands for you

  • Effectiveness: Each brand was evaluated for the efficacy of its products in addressing various skin concerns such as acne, aging, hydration, and sensitivity.

  • Customer Reviews: Insights from real users helped gauge overall satisfaction, product performance, and consistency in delivering promised results.

  • Brand Reputation: We considered the reputation and trustworthiness of each brand within the skincare community, focusing on their commitment to innovation and customer satisfaction.

  • Value for Money: We assessed the pricing relative to the quality and benefits offered by each brand, ensuring you get the best value for your investment.

  • Ethical Standards: Brands that uphold ethical standards in sourcing ingredients, manufacturing processes, and sustainability practices were given preference.

Below is a comprehensive list of best Korean skin care brands

  1. Glow Recipe

Glow Recipe Photo: Amazon

Glow Recipe is a beloved Korean skincare brand known for its innovative and fruit-forward products. If you're wondering whether it's a good fit for your skin type, you're in luck—Glow Recipe caters to a variety of skin types, from dry and sensitive to oily and combination.

Their product range is extensive, featuring everything from cleansers and toners to serums, moisturisers, and masks. Popular items include the Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask and the Banana Soufflé Moisture Cream. These products are formulated with gentle yet effective ingredients like watermelon, avocado, and hyaluronic acid, which are designed to nourish and hydrate the skin without irritation.

This brand has carved out a strong position in the market, often praised for its fun, colourful packaging and effective formulations. The brand enjoys a solid reputation, frequently highlighted in beauty magazines and loved by influencers.

Products from Glow Recipe worth the hype

2, ILLIYOON

ILLIYOON Photo: Amazon

ILLIYOON is a rising star in the Korean skincare scene, known for its focus on gentle yet effective formulations suitable for sensitive skin types. Their product range spans from basic skincare essentials to targeted treatments, making it a go-to brand for those seeking simplicity and effectiveness.

The brand emphasises natural ingredients known for their soothing and moisturising properties, such as ceramides, panthenol (provitamin B5), and madecassoside (derived from centella asiatica). These ingredients help strengthen the skin barrier, hydrate deeply, and calm irritation—ideal for sensitive and dry skin types.

While perhaps not as widely recognized as some major Korean beauty brands, ILLIYOON is dermatologically tested, ensuring safety and efficacy for various skin types, reflecting its commitment to quality and skin-friendly formulations. Feedback from users often highlights the brand’s ability to soothe sensitive skin, reduce redness, and provide long-lasting hydration.

Some of the best products from ILLIYOON range

3. COSRX

COSRX Photo: Amazon

Established in 2014, COSRX has quickly gained a strong reputation among skincare enthusiasts and professionals alike. Their products are often clinically evaluated and tested, ensuring safety and efficacy. They're particularly beneficial for acne-prone, oily, combination, and sensitive skin types, thanks to their gentle yet effective formulations.

They prioritise using minimal ingredients and focus on scientifically-backed actives that deliver results without unnecessary additives.

Their range includes essentials like cleansers, toners, exfoliants (like the popular BHA Blackhead Power Liquid), serums (such as the Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence), moisturisers, and acne treatments. COSRX products are formulated with key ingredients like snail mucin, Centella Asiatica, AHA/BHA acids, and propolis, targeting issues such as acne, aging, and uneven skin tone.

The brand's straightforward approach and affordable pricing make it a favourite among those looking for reliable skincare solutions backed by science.

Popular product from this fast forward rising brand

4. LANEIGE

LANEIGE Photo: Amazon

Users have continually praised LANEIGE for its ability to deliver noticeable improvements in skin hydration and texture. Since its inception it has built a solid reputation for combining scientific research with effective skincare solutions.

Their products feature ingredients like Water Science™ technology, which includes mineral water, hyaluronic acid, and proprietary blends like the Advanced Water Science™ technology found in their Water Bank line. Popular items include the Water Sleeping Mask, Lip Sleeping Mask, and the Cream Skin Refiner, all designed to provide intense hydration and nourishment.

Many appreciate the luxurious feel and effective results of their products, especially the overnight masks which leave skin feeling refreshed and rejuvenated.

LANEIGE's commitment to hydration and skincare innovation continues to resonate with customers worldwide, making it a trusted name in the world of Korean beauty.

Their prominent product lineup include

5. belif

belif Photo: Amazon

Belif is a Korean skincare brand that’s revered for its effective solutions, especially for hydration and maintaining a healthy skin barrier. If you're dealing with dryness, dullness, or sensitivity, this brand offers promising remedies.

They cater  to a wide range of skin types, particularly benefiting those with dry, combination, and sensitive skin. Their formulations are free from parabens, sulfates, and phthalates, appealing to users seeking clean skincare options.

Their lineup includes moisturisers (like the True Cream Aqua Bomb and Moisturizing Bomb), cleansers, serums, masks, and toners. Key ingredients such as comfrey leaf, oats, and calendula help soothe and nourish the skin, while maintaining a gentle approach suitable for sensitive skin types.

The brand continues to be praised for its innovative approach to skincare, making it a favourite among skincare enthusiasts looking for gentle yet powerful solutions.

Standout products include that are under $40

6, innisfree

innisfree Photo: Amazon

Innisfree has cemented its place as a staple in many skincare routines, known for its extensive range of products and dedicated retail outlets worldwide. They offer a diverse array of skincare items including cleansers, toners, essences, serums (such as the Green Tea Seed Serum), moisturizers, masks, and sunscreens.

Their products are formulated with natural ingredients sourced from Korea's pristine Jeju Island, like green tea, volcanic clay, and orchid extracts, catering to a wide spectrum of skin types. The brand is particularly favoured for its commitment to sustainability and eco-friendly practices, earning a positive reputation among environmentally conscious consumers.

Founded in 2000, Innisfree has grown into a globally recognized name in skincare, praised for its effective formulations rooted in natural ingredients. Reviews highlight Innisfree's ability to deliver noticeable results, from improved skin texture to enhanced hydration and a healthy glow.

Some staples you should include in your skincare routine

7. AESTURA

AESTURA Photo: Amazon

AESTURA has made a name for itself by focusing on products designed for sensitive and compromised skin. Their offerings cater to individuals who need gentle, soothing care, often including those with conditions like eczema or rosacea. The brand boasts a comprehensive range of products, including cleansers, toners, moisturisers, and specialised treatments.

This brand's products are formulated with dermatologically tested ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and Centella Asiatica, which help to strengthen the skin barrier, provide deep hydration, and soothe irritation.

Their key products, like the Atobarrier 365 Cream and the Theracne 365 Clear Deep Cleansing Foam, are highly regarded for their effectiveness and gentleness.

Feedback highlights the noticeable improvement in skin hydration and overall health, with many appreciating the brand's commitment to gentle yet effective skincare. If you're seeking reliable, dermatologist-approved skincare, AESTURA is definitely worth considering.

Products that may help you achieve that glass skin

AESTURA A-CICA365 Soft Calming Mask Pad

AESTURA A-CICA 365 Calming Cream with Blemish Calming Serum

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What makes Korean skincare different from Western skincare?

  • Korean skincare emphasises prevention, hydration, and achieving a luminous complexion through consistent and gentle care. It often incorporates innovative ingredients and practices rooted in traditional Korean beauty rituals.

How should I incorporate Korean skincare products into my routine?

  • Start with a basic routine of cleansing, toning, and moisturizing, then gradually introduce additional products like serums or masks based on your skin concerns. Consistency and patience are important as your skin adjusts to new products.

Are Korean skincare products suitable for men?

  • Yes, Korean skincare brands often offer gender-neutral or specifically formulated products for men. These products focus on hydration, anti-aging, and soothing properties, catering to the unique needs of male skin.

How long does it take to see results from Korean skincare products?

  • Results from Korean skincare products can vary depending on individual skin types and concerns. Generally, users may notice improvements in hydration and skin texture within a few weeks of consistent use.

What does one mean when they say Korean glass skin?

  • Korean glass skin refers to a skincare trend aimed at achieving a smooth, flawless complexion with a reflective, dewy finish. It involves meticulous hydration, exfoliation, and use of lightweight, hydrating products to enhance skin radiance.

Wrapping up

Korean skincare brands offer a pathway to discovering effective and innovative skincare solutions. With a focus on quality ingredients, gentle formulations, and a rich heritage of skincare wisdom, these brands cater to diverse skin types and concerns. By choosing from our carefully curated list of recommendations, you can tap into a world of skincare known for its commitment to hydration, radiance, and overall skin health. Whether you're seeking to address specific skincare issues or enhance your daily routine, Korean skincare offers a holistic approach that blends tradition with modern science, promising visible results and a renewed sense of confidence in your skin.

Disclaimer: The above content is non-editorial and produced by a third party partner. Outlook India does not guarantee, vouch for or endorse any of the content*.

*The product prices mentioned in the article are subject to change

Their product lines are formulated to address specific concerns like acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, dullness, and hydration.

Title:

Content: Skincare Sunday

5 K-Beauty Trends To Amp Up Your Spring Skincare Routine

Rosdiana Ciaravolo

There’s a reason that so many of our favourite skincare trends (on TikTok and otherwise) hail from Korea, where they know a thing or two about how to create the juiciest skin. But what’s trending now? Vogue spoke to aesthetic doctor and K-beauty expert, Dr Christine Hall, to learn about the latest ingredients, routines and rituals coming from the place where it all begins – and how to work them into your skincare regimen with products currently available in the UK.

Fermented ingredients

We know how good fermented foods are for our guts, but our Korean counterparts know how good they are for their skin. “They ferment most of their ingredients – for example, red rice, lactic and glycolic acid, are all fermented byproducts,” she says. “Fermenting an ingredient makes it something like four times more potent than it would be in its normal state.”

Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial Mask

La Mer The Resurfacing Treatment

Purito Fermented Complex 94 Boosting Essence

HaruHaru Wonder Black Rice Bakuchiol Eye Cream

Skip-care

Even the Koreans are now shunning the 12-step skincare routine they made so popular. “There’s been a shift away from the very old school multi-step routine,” says Hall. “Skip-care is basically a fancy way of saying that you skip some of the steps. They do that by using products that house a combination of ingredients.” Step hybrid formulas, like Tatcha’s Vitamin C formula, combine different active ingredients (like vitamin C and fruit acids) in one formula. They work harder for the skin and save money and time – what’s not to love?

Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum

Byoma Hydrating Recovery Oil

Waterless beauty

“In Korea, there’s a real focus on products that don’t have much water in them – which is where the term ‘waterless beauty’ comes from. The idea is that you get way more than what you pay for because they last longer, due to the minimal water in the product,” says Hall. Look at many ingredients lists and you’ll notice “aqua” is often at the top, but the idea with waterless formulas is that, instead of being filled by water, they are packed with more efficacious ingredients and less filler. You’ll often find them in powder format or oils. For the latter reason alone, they’re not for every skin type, but Hall says this move has come from a more earth-friendly approach to beauty in South Korea.

Ethique The Perfector Nourishing Solid Face Cream

Chanel N°1 Red Camellia Powder-To-Foam Cleanser

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser Bar

Keys Soulcare Be Luminous Exfoliator

Skin flooding

You may have heard about “skin flooding” on TikTok – the term has a cool 2.1 billion views on the platform. The idea really originated with that aforementioned multi-step Korean skincare regime, where layer upon layer of hydration (using different formulas in different textures) were applied to the skin to quench its thirst. To “skin flood” is a similar affair; it involves applying a number of different hydrating products, from serums to lightweight lotions to thicker moisturisers, to deeply moisturise and lock it all in. “Double moisturising is also a big trend for those who are time poor,” adds Hall.

Huxley Grab Water Essence

Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel

L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Filler Line Plumping Water Cream

Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Sisley Ecological Compound Advanced Formula

Ren Clean Skincare Perfect Canvas Smooth, Prep and Plump Essence

Double SPF

And if doubling up on your moisturiser isn’t enough, have you also tried applying your SPF twice? “There’s a real interest in blue light, so the Koreans are finding SPFs that concentrate on blue light, then using another SPF – one that has light-reflecting filters and so on – on top,” says Hall. “This second SPF often comes in the form of make-up, and they’ll wear that as their base instead of applying foundation.” All in the name of excellent sun protection.

Dr.Jart+ BB Premium Beauty Balm SPF50

Supergoop! Mineral Mattescreen 100% Mineral Sunscreen

Innovative Ingredients and Technologies:**
Popular brands such as COSRX incorporate unique active ingredients such as snail mucin, Centella Asiatica, AHAs/BHAs, propolis, and specialized acids.

Korean products often incorporate newer skincare trends (e.g., "skin flooding," "double moisturizing") and multitasking products that deliver hydration and nourishment.

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Dr. Plant's International Influence Has Reached a New Level

09/25/2021 | 01:05am EDT

Tokyo, Japan--(Newsfile Corp. - September 25, 2021) - Recently, Dr. Plant entered the flagship store of COSME, the largest cosmetics specialty store in Tokyo, Japan, whereby "Chinese alpine plants" once again attracted great attention.

With the continuous development of China's economy, more and more brands are embarking on the road of overseas expansion. In recent years, the confidence in national products has increased continually, and the pace of internationalization has become faster and faster. As the first Chinese cosmetics brand to successfully go overseas, Dr. Plant has experienced rapid growth in the competitive industry for decades, not only having a competitive advantage in the domestic market, but also successfully occupying a place in the international market. So far, Dr. Plant has been able to gain a foothold in Japan, Hong Kong, and on Amazon Singapore. It has furthermore more than 4,200 single-brand stores and more than 12 million global members. The concept of alpine plant skin care has therefore been able to reach an increasingly wide range of consumers. With the recent launch of Dr. Plant in the COSME flagship store, the largest cosmetics specialty store in Tokyo, Japan, the brand's international influence has now reached a new level.

Dr. Plant has launched in the COSME flagship store, Tokyo's largest cosmetics specialty store

To view an enhanced version of this graphic, please visit:
https://orders.newsfilecorp.com/files/8247/97651_4979ae20c416cba8_001full.jpg

In 2014, Dr. Plant and the Kunming Institute of Botany of the Chinese Academy of Sciences jointly established the "Dr. Plant R&D Center", using modern genetic technology to unlock more possibilities of alpine plants for skin care. Through continuous research and development efforts of the beauty-enhancing properties of alpine plants, Dr. Plant's alpine plant cosmetics are designed to be especially suitable for the Asian skin which is more sensitive and has a thinner stratum corneum layer. Dr. Plant is rooted in the belief that "Asian people should use skin care products suitable for Asian people", and while promoting the concept of alpine plant skin care throughout the country, the company has gradually been able to spread to all of Asia and even the world. In the journey of internationalization, Dr. Plant first chose to expand into the Japanese market which has similar skin care needs to Chinese consumers, adapting to the local skin care habits and skin quality. Through targeted research conducted by the Hanfang Skin Care Scientific Research Center in Tokyo, Japan, the company used the advantages of scientific research as well as the essence of traditional Chinese herbal medicine to specifically research the Chinese skin care products that Japanese consumers love, providing the brand with products that are in demand in the Japanese market.

Dr. Plant Hanfang Skin Care Science Research Center, Tokyo, Japan

To view an enhanced version of this graphic, please visit:
https://orders.newsfilecorp.com/files/8247/97651_4979ae20c416cba8_002full.jpg

Mr. Xie Yong, the founder and chairman of the Dr. Plant brand, once said in an interview, "China's most demanding consumers are in Shanghai, and the world's most demanding consumers are in Japan." Entering the flagship store of COSME, the largest cosmetics specialty store in Tokyo, Japan, is not only a demonstration of the high-end quality of the brand, but also an important manifestation of Dr. Plant's efforts to gain a foothold in the consumer market. In 2019, Dr. Plant opened the first overseas single-brand store in Osaka, Japan. The main product lines are dendrobium, purple ganoderma, and snow lotus etc., which condense the essence of alpine plants and the wisdom of Chinese medicine skin care. In its Chinese medicine alpine plant skin care formulas, the company uses essences from Chinese alpine plants, which have a well-documented efficacy. The product ingredients are mild and safe, light, and easy to absorb and can effectively relieve skin sensitivity problems of Japanese women. Being loved by Japanese consumers, Dr. Plant has successfully won recognition in mainstream overseas markets.

Display of Dr. Plant products in the COSME flagship store

To view an enhanced version of this graphic, please visit:
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Relying on its emphasis on product quality, Dr. Plant has highlighted its competitive advantages on the international battlefield. At present, their alpine plant skin care products have been exported to Japan, Singapore, Hong Kong and other countries and regions, setting off a wave of alpine plant skin care. During 2020, Dr. Plant has managed to surpass the impact of the pandemic and has managed to achieve outstanding performances in overseas markets: the performance of two stores in Japan set the record for the number one growth in the Shinsaibashi shopping street in 2020. Dr. Plant's Japan-made Dendrobium activating aging-resistance mask has been able to set an all-time record in terms of word-of-mouth appraisal of skin care products and facial masks on the Japanese COSME website. Today, Dr. Plant is steadily advancing in the international market, constantly demonstrating the "the glamour of domestic products", which also points to the future of the brand!

Beijing DR PLANT Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
Coco
yangdefang@drplant.com.cn
Website: https://www.drplant.com.cn/

To view the source version of this press release, please visit https://www.newsfilecorp.com/release/97651

© Newsfilecorp 2021
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Government & Industry Investment:**
Korean skin care’s global leadership is partly attributed to active support and investment from the Korean government, fostering rapid product innovation and advanced research in cosmetics.

Title:

Content: Is Korean Skin Care Really Superior? An Investigation

Photographed by Hayleigh Longman
With its shelfie-worthy packaging and a focus on intriguing ingredients like snail mucin and fermented rice water, Korean skincare has been the subject of Western fascination for years. Brands like CosRx, Innisfree, and Laneige have assumed viral social-media status, while Glow Recipe and Dr. Jart+ are now practically household names, thanks to TikTok.
Besides whipping up curiosity, Korean skin care has established a name for itself as one of the most effective and trustworthy categories in beauty. And ahead of winter, it's seeing a serious revival. In the past few weeks, searches for 'Korean skin-care routine', '10-step Korean skin care', and 'best Korean skin-care products' have made up Google's skin-care trends. While on TikTok, the hashtag #koreanskincare has seen a handful of new videos, each raking in millions of views.
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In October, a tweet and TikTok video posted by skin-care blogger @Mul_OVO went viral for showcasing the benefits of switching to Korean skin care. But is Korean skin care really better? Or have we simply got caught up in the hype?
Cosmetic Chemist and Licensed Aesthetician Esther Olu believes our obsession with K-skincare started with 'glass skin' — skin so dewy, it's almost reflective. Olu says that glass skin was the ideal and promoted "healthy-looking" and "luminous" skin standards. "Everyone wanted to have healthy skin," says Olu, "and Korean [skin care] has played a critical role in this mindset."

The Korean approach to skin care is a lot gentler and there is a distinct difference in ingredients lists compared to Western products, which can be harsh.

You could argue that the main intent of skin care everywhere is to promote healthy, happy skin. But there are some key differences. Many Western skin-care trends (such as skin cycling, peels, and rediscovering skin toners) tend to home in on ingredients such as retinol and exfoliating acids, for example glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid. These are great when used properly and sensibly under the guidance of an expert but they can be notoriously irritating when overdone, as many of us tend to do.
Ask any dermatologist to pinpoint common skin gripes they regularly spot in clinic and they'll almost always reel off perioral dermatitis (a red rash that circles your mouth), burns, irritation, dryness, and a compromised skin barrier (redness, tightness, breakouts, rashes) — all a result of overdoing it on harsh ingredients.
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Of course, Korean skin care does feature the aforementioned ingredients. They do work, after all. But the Korean approach seems to be a lot gentler and there is a distinct difference in ingredients lists, too, says Olu. PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are a lot more popular in Korean skin care, for example. Take Dr. Jart+'s recently launched Pore Remedy range, in which PHAs are the star ingredient. Much like glycolic and salicylic acids, PHAs exfoliate the skin effectively, but what sets them apart from other exfoliators is their large molecule size. They exfoliate at surface level without going too deep and aggravating skin as other acids might. Glow Recipe and CosRx are just a few Korean brands championing them and subsequently promoting a kinder approach to the controversial exfoliation trend.
In fact, Korean skin care has been something of a savior for our irritated skin barriers of late. Much of Korean skin care shines a light on reducing inflammation rather than drying out skin. "Promoting hydration as well as soothing ingredients is a primary focus in Korean skin care," confirms Cosmetic Chemist Ramón Pagán. "This is a contrast to the products we tend to see in the west, which can be more astringent or irritating to the skin with higher percentages of active ingredients."
Pagán explains that thanks to skin-care marketing in the early '00s, the Western approach to skin care has been hooked on stripping skin: getting rid of the 'bad' stuff like excess oil and clogged pores. Conversely, Korean skin care is about nourishing the skin. Reddit's skin-care obsessives concur that Western skin care can be disagreeable, particularly for those with dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin.
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@hkjennylee #greenscreen and not to mention the dupe has bifida as the FIRST ingredient while the original has it as the SECOND… tea 🙈 #koreanskincare #kbeautyblogger #kbeauty #koreanskincareproducts #kbeautyskincare ♬ Monkeys Spinning Monkeys - Kevin MacLeod & Kevin The Monkey
Olu seconds this. "Western skin-care products tend to take a corrective approach," she tells R29. "Specifically, the formulas are dedicated to solving a skin-care concern, whether it is retinol, azelaic acid, or BHAs and AHAs," which are different kinds of exfoliating acids. "[Western skin care] is meant to help with anti-aging and things like redness," explains Olu, "while Korean skin care focuses more on maintenance and skin barrier health."
It's why you'll find excellent ingredients, like ceramides (very moisturizing and hold the skin barrier together), centella asiatica aka cica (a herb that decreases inflammation, redness, puffiness, and swelling) and niacinamide (vitamin B3, which keeps the skin barrier intact and reduces excess oil) in most Korean skin care. The color-correcting cream that recently went viral on TikTok? It includes cica — and of course it's Korean.

A reason why Korean skin care is so popular — and so good — is because the Korean government is said to have actively invested in its beauty brands to better develop cosmetics.

Redditors also point out that Korean skin care includes 'special ingredients' and technologies that Western products don't. Snail mucin (excreted from snails) is a popular moisturizing ingredient among Korean brands, with influencers and experts extolling the virtues of products like CosRx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence Gel. "This is a great barrier-protecting ingredient," Dr. Kemi Fabusiwa told R29 recently, "but it also gives your skin a great shine."
Then there's allantoin, popular in Korean skin care for locking moisture into the skin, as well as rice extract (said to increase hydration, making skin plump), and bee propolis, a natural substance produced by honey bees that has been proven to smooth skin and protect it from environmental factors, such as pollution.
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Beyond the more skin-friendly and interesting approach to ingredients, it has been reported that Korean beauty and skin care is one of the country's biggest businesses and exports. As the world's third largest cosmetics exporter, South Korea's cosmetics exports outperformed home appliances, pharmaceuticals, and smartphones in 2020. Data also suggests that South Korea's skin-care market will reach $11.4 billion in value by 2026. Interestingly, one of the reasons why Korean skin care is so popular — and so good — is because the Korean government is said to have actively invested in its beauty brands in order to better develop cosmetics.
"When K-beauty was introduced to the Western market through popular channels and social media, a phenomenon was awakened, creating demand and opportunity for business," says Nina Vargas, a global business strategist for beauty, fashion, and wellness brands. "This allowed Korean cosmetics companies to obtain help from the Korea International Trade Association (KITA)." KITA is a nonprofit organization that helps small and medium enterprises enter markets abroad.
What's more, Dr. Jenelle Kim, Founder and Formulator of JBK Wellness Labs, says that Korean skin care uses the latest science to understand exactly what our skin needs. "It utilizes ingredients in new ways, while remaining committed to formulating with centuries-proven ingredients and, for some brands [like Erborian, Sulwhasoo, and Beauty of Joseon], the powers of herbal medicine." Ginseng and green tea are super popular, for example.
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Dr. Kim adds that our skin's needs change with the climate or environmental factors, like air quality, makeup trends, and hormones. Korean skin care has consistently switched things up in an effort to help us stay in balance. Pagán agrees that heritage surrounds Korean skin care. "Lots of brands use 'hanbang' ingredients, which are based around traditional Korean medicine," he says. "These are often herbal and naturally derived." Post-pandemic, when we're more interested than ever in keeping healthy, highlighting medicinal skin care makes Korean products appear trustworthy and effective, elevating them above others.
In short, skin care is an inherent part of Korean culture. Head to TikTok and you'll see that Koreans view beauty not as a luxury but as a necessity. Countless videos suggest that from a young age, people are taught to take care of their skin and to look at skin care as a preventative measure. Year-round sun protection is also a big trend among Korean skin-care lovers, with a high factor, broad spectrum sunscreen said to be one of the most important products in a routine.
Another reason Korean skin care is regarded so highly is because the majority of it is affordable. Head to Reddit and you'll spot skin-care lovers swapping reviews of Innisfree, Tonymoly, and Etude House. The promise of soothed, hydrated skin is their main pull, but so are the relatively low prices, with most cleansers, serums, and creams coming in under $25.
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Amid a cost of living crisis, it makes sense that we want to spend as little as possible on beauty products. When it comes to Korean skin care, though, tightening your purse strings doesn't mean compromising on quality. All the proven skin-care ingredients are there, from retinol to acids, just in gentler concentrations and sophisticated formulas. Some TikTokers even point out that Korean skincare often dupes brands and products that charge hundreds for very similar ingredients and results. "It doesn't matter if you spend $1 or $100. If it's K-Beauty, chances are it's great," thinks Vargas.
Over time, the 10-product routine has given way to routines with fewer steps. Excessive layering doesn't work for everyone, particularly if you have a strict budget or your skin is sensitive, reactive, or acne-prone. But Korean skin care is ever evolving and always adapting to consumer needs. Because of this, three- or four-step routines are now trending among Korean influencers. TikTokers are sharing their easy skin-care rituals, which always start with a gentle, hydrating cleanser followed by a serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen. This is a quick and effective routine that dermatologists and skin-care experts often recommend for skin types across the board.
Pagán believes that Korean skin care stays fun and inventive. "It's simple but impactful and you get luxury experiences at affordable prices. You don't see Western brands readily introducing staple Korean concepts, like fermented ingredients or snail secretion." Add to that the serious investment and spotlight on nourishing the skin (rather than getting rid of the 'nasty' stuff) and it's clear to see why Korean skin care is regarded so highly. But is it better? Essentially, the very best skin care is the skin care that works for you. If it happens to be Korean, that's great. But if it's something else entirely, why switch it up?
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This story was originally published on Refinery29UK.
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Gentle Approach & Minimalist Formulations:**
The Korean philosophy emphasizes a gentle, non-irritating approach, distinguishing itself by using milder ingredients and less aggressive treatments compared to many traditional Western products.

Accessibility & Value:**
K-beauty products are lauded for exceptional value—offering high-quality, concentrated formulas at accessible prices.

They often last longer due to less dilution and cost less, appealing especially to cost-conscious consumers.

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Content: Why we're all becoming 'skinimalists' and how to declutter your beauty cabinet

It’s time to streamline your beauty regime

According to a new study of 4,000 women by Avon, ‘skinimalism’ is a growing trend. This makes a change from where we were five years ago, when 12-step Korean skincare rituals were all the rage. And it’s a no-brainer: time is a precious commodity, especially post-lockdown.

Like many of you, when commuting wasn’t part of my daily schedule I relished the opportunity to experiment more with skincare. But since transitioning from working from home to commuting to the office, I’ve been inclined to streamline my skin routine – and apparently you have too.

Avon’s research found that only 10 per cent of women now use more than five skincare products daily. But if you are still facing a bathroom cabinet full of half-used products and haven’t a clue where to start culling, I can help.

Damascan Rose Facial Treatment, £55, Aesop

To use a fashion analogy, one well- cut blazer and a flattering pair of jeans will keep on giving long after this season is over, and the same is true for certain beauty products. Invest in a couple of well-formulated serums with proven ingredients over and above multiple faddy products and your face will thank you for it.

Begin with a good cleanser that properly (and gently) prepares the skin’s surface for your next step. I like a sulphate-free foaming formulation as it captures dirt and pollution particles like no other. Next, if you have specific concerns, then a serum with targeted ingredients is needed. Mandelic acid is a good end-of-summer option for gently exfoliating skin and improving its texture, while encapsulated retinol is, in most cases, a solid bet for night-time. You’ll need a hydrating serum to keep skin supple and you can’t go wrong with ceramides and hyaluronic acid.

Remember that creams are generally there to seal in hydration and keep pollutants out, so a simple barrier cream to finish will suffice. Or, mix a facial oil with water or a facial spritz, which enables you to adjust the level of moisture you need on any given day.

Regena Facial Milk, £59, Waphyto; Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Exfoliating Serum, £22, Selfless by Hyram; Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules, from £45, Elizabeth Arden; Skin Food Light, from £8.99, Weleda; Crystal Retinal 3 Stable Retinol Night Serum, £45, Medik8 at Net-a-Porter

To make things even simpler, you could zero in on one succinct skincare brand. I’m enamoured of the clean Japanese brand Waphyto, which harnesses powerful plant-based ingredients with sophisticated science. The unfussy, tightly edited line-up of products (free from parabens, ethanols, synthetic colours, fragrance and petroleum-based surfactants) is the brainchild of award-winning plant scientist and phytotherapist Atsuko Morita, who was inspired by Japanese ‘wa culture’. Based on achieving peace and harmony, it’s a philosophy not dissimilar to Lagom, the Swedish mantra of ‘not too little, not too much’.

I genuinely rate all six products in the skincare range, which comprises two cleansers (one oil for removing make-up, one foaming to rid you of deep-down dirt), two creams (one light, one rich), one facial oil and a clever gel-based toner. But, if pressed to highlight just one, I’d recommend the Regena Facial Milk, made with pure squalane and full of mood-lifting essential oils. Or why not give the trial pack of six a whirl and see how your skin fares? Mine is softer, brighter and clearer after a full month’s use. Otherwise, choose from the rest of my road-tested essentials, specially selected for this time of year.

Customizable, Multi-Step Routines:**
While the multi-step routines can seem overwhelming, Korean skin care promotes customizable regimens to suit individual needs.

Products like emulsions, serums, and essences allow bespoke layering, but the trend of "skinimalism" now also supports streamlined routines.

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Content: 7 Best Korean skincare products for dull skin tone

The best Korean skincare products for dull skin brighten a lackluster and tired complexion, making way for skin that glows inside out. A dull complexion that often appears ashy and dry with a patchy and bumpy texture is a sign that the skin needs some extra attention. The good news is that one can rediscover naturally radiant skin with the right dull skin treatment.

Treating dull skin is something Korean skincare products know all too well. Focusing on skin health with products infused with refreshing brighteners like vitamin C, niacinamide, propolis, and hyaluronic acid, they make tired skin glow again.

One can say hello to a more radiant complexion with this roundup of the best Korean skincare products for dull skin.

7 Best Korean skincare products for dull skin tone

1. Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Water Ex

The skin-rejuvenating effects of ginseng make it a favorite ingredient infused in the best Korean skincare products for dull skin. Formulated with Sulwhasoo’s signature Ginsenomics with steamed ginseng water, it provides intense hydration and nutrition for dry skin.

Coupled with a lightweight gel-in-water formula, it quickly absorbs and induces hydration and firmness, giving one a Korean glass skin glow.

2. Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Serum

Anyone looking for the best Korean skincare products to transform sad and dull skin into glowy skin can consider Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Serum. Packed with 70% vitamin C from Jeju green tangerines, it delivers a potent brightening effect to minimize dark spots and blemishes for an even skin tone.

Adding to vitamin C are 5% niacinamide and rice bran extract, revitalizing the skin and leaving it soft and glowing. It is available on Amazon for $22.80.

3. Isntree Chestnut AHA 8% Clear Essence

Dull skin is very often caused by dead skin cell buildup. Enriched with 4% glycolic acid and 4% gentler lactic acid, the clear essence is designed for anyone desiring the best Korean skincare products for dull skin. The use of two kinds of AHAs gets rid of skin impurities and dead skin cells, exposing new, more radiant skin. All these AHAs act as humectants to keep the skin hydrated.

Combined with other skin-healing ingredients like Centella asiatica, hyaluronic acid, and panthenol, it helps with overall dullness. It is available on Soko Glam for $18.10.

4. Some By Mi Propolis B5 Serum

Formulated with a high concentration of propolis extract, anybody dealing with dull skin can take advantage of the brightening effects of the serum. Adding to propolis are vitamin B5 and ceramides, creating a trio that locks in moisture and fortifies the skin for a healthier complexion.

The serum’s honey-like, silky texture absorbs nicely into the skin, keeping it hydrated without being sticky. The best propolis product retails for $18.70 on Amazon.

5. I’m From Beet Energy Ampoule

Beetroot is rich in antioxidants, an incredible way to combat the signs of stress and transform even the dullest of skins. Made with 81.5% beetroot extract, the ampoule is packed with revitalizing properties to revive the skin’s glow. Meanwhile, adding niacinamide and squalane helps with hydration and brightening, ensuring the skin is smooth and supple.

With regular use, the ampoule reduces the look of fine lines and wrinkles, improving overall skin texture. Formulated for all skin types, Soko Glam sells the ampoule for $22.00.

6. Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Hyaluronic-Cica Blue Serum

Dull skin due to dehydration can get a transformation from the serum’s signature Hyaluronic-Cica formula. The five layers of hyaluronic acid and Centella asiatica work synergistically to give the skin the moisture it needs for long-lasting hydration.

Adding to them is ivy leaf extract, which helps energize dull skin, leaving you with a renewed complexion. It retails for $14 on the official website.

7. Ma:nyo Galactomy Essence Cream

Galactomyces extract is the star ingredient, giving the cream a potent skin-smoothing and revitalizing effect, leaving one with softer, more elastic skin. Adding to it is shea butter to moisturize and protect, niacinamide to help fade dark spots, and abalone enzyme to relieve tired skin.

Although it has a rich and creamy texture, it readily absorbs into the skin for improved hydration without leaving a tacky feeling. Designed for anybody desiring the best Korean skincare products for dull skin, it retails for $35 on the official website.

The lack of skin glow and plumpness may be because of dead skin cell buildup, dehydration, environmental pollutants, aging skin, or UV damage. But, more often, it’s caused by a combination of several of these problems.

Hence, the best Korean skincare products for dull skin, as we mentioned above, have a unique blend of ingredients to provide a multi-tasking skincare action: hydrating, moisturizing, brightening, and protection.

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Strategic packaging design, branding collaborations, and fast sell-outs at large retailers (e.g., Sephora) boost desirability.

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The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

How TikTok Brought Back K-Beauty

While the K-beauty craze of the 2010s has waned in recent years, brands and retailers are seeing renewed interest in the category thanks to TikTok.
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Key insights

  • After K-beauty’s international spike in popularity more than a decade ago, it entered a period of decline at the start of the 2020s.
  • TikTok is leading a K-beauty resurgence. Laneige, Innisfree, Beauty of Joseon and Cosrx are among brands going viral on the platform.
  • K-beauty-inspired trends are also taking off. “Korean glass skin” saw 134 percent year-over-year growth on TikTok over a six-month period ending April 30.

When Laneige launched at Sephora US in 2017, its K-beauty identity was front and centre.

The Amorepacific-owned brand was featured in the retailer’s K-beauty endcap, a K-beauty menu bar section and multiple K-beauty campaigns. But half a decade later, hype around the category had faded, according to Julien Bouzitat, US brand general manager for Laneige and sister brand Innisfree.

“The first time, it was very successful,” he said. “The second time, not as great … [Sephora’s] takeaway was that the first wave of K-beauty had gone away.”

The K-beauty craze emerged in the US around 2012 with the rise of BB cream, and spurred countless subsequent beauty trends such as sheet masks, 10-step skin care routines and blemish patches. In the mid- to late 2010s, K-beauty fervour was so high that imported labels like Laneige and Tony Moly quickly faced competition from major US brands launching copycat products as well as from new K-beauty-inspired startups like Glow Recipe, Then I Met You and Peach & Lily.

But as K-beauty went mainstream, brands’ use of the term as a selling point died down — until now. Korean brands have TikTok to thank. The hashtag #kbeauty has 9.5 billion views on TikTok. The term “Korean glass skin,” a K-beauty trend that was popular in 2017, saw 134 percent year-over-year growth on TikTok over a six-month period ending April 30, according to data science company Spate and market research firm Circana. Sales of products that help users achieve the Korean “glass skin” look have risen, too. The viral Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence is now the number one best-selling beauty product on Amazon after taking off on TikTok. The brand said it has now sold 15 million bottles as of September.

While K-Beauty’s original heyday was driven in part by gimmick marketing and attention-grabbing packaging, its resurgence is due to a new “skintellectual” age group being drawn to product efficacy. Moreover, affordable price points are encouraging cost-conscious and dupe-obsessed shoppers to buy.

“There’s been a second generation which became more [focused on the] brand-building aspect of K-beauty and this Korean skincare expertise,” said Bouzitat.

The Wave Recedes

Since the 1990s, Hallyu — the “Korean wave” — has been growing outside South Korea’s borders, as the South Korean government encouraged international exports globally. The 2010s saw an influx of Korean culture and products, especially entertainment and beauty. US-based Sephora and Ulta Beauty stocked up on Korean beauty brands, while beauty conglomerates acquired them. In 2018, L’Oréal purchased K-beauty brand 3CE parent company Nanda, while the Estée Lauder Companies bought Dr. Jart+ in 2019.

“It took skin care to a whole other level. I don’t think it will ever be the same, thanks to the influence of K-beauty,” said Lindsay Ullman, co-founder of beauty consulting firm The View from 32 and a former merchandising executive at Sephora.

But its popularity kicked off an influx of K-beauty inspired brands stateside. Soko Glam and Peach & Lily both started as e-tailers selling imported K-beauty products before their founders, Charlotte Cho and Alicia Yoon, respectively, expanded with their own skin care brands. Quickly, legacy brands like Lancôme and Clinique began introducing their own versions of BB creams, sheet masks or cleansing oils.

Momentum slowed in the 2020s. Estée Lauder Companies reported in August that Dr. Jart+’s net sales declined during the 2023 fiscal year. In the US, Sephora stopped stocking at least 10 K-beauty brands that it sold in the late 2010s, including Too Cool for School, Neogen, Amorepacific and Son & Park, and no longer highlights its K-beauty section on its homepage. Amorepacific’s profits plunged by 28.5 percent in 2022. Even upstarts like Glow Recipe and Hero Cosmetics, that once traded on being K-beauty-inspired brands, stopped using the term in their marketing and communications.

An Influencer-Led Renaissance

It’s not the multi-step routine tutorials — which were the hallmark of 2010s K-beauty — driving the category’s comeback. Instead, it’s individual viral product crazes sparked by influencers and celebrities.

K-beauty sunscreens with formulas that don’t have a white cast, for example, have been a hit with influencers. Innisfree’s Daily UV Defense sunscreen, which went viral on TikTok, was explicitly cited as one of the top-selling products driving Amorepacific Group’s North America growth this year. Beauty of Joseon’s Relief Sun sunscreen has received 587 million views on TikTok, driven by influencers like Ava Lee, who is working on a collaboration with the brand planned for release in 2024. While the product is not yet approved by the FDA for sale in the US, customers have tried to find workarounds, ordering from cross-border websites or unverified Amazon sellers.

Meanwhile, Laneige is seeing double-digit sales growth in the US, said Bouzitat. The brand has been a hit on TikTok for the past two years thanks in part to its ASMR product videos and high-profile brand ambassador, “Euphoria” actress Sydney Sweeney. The efforts the brand has made on TikTok are part of a broader North America marketing push on the part of Amorepacific Group, which also launched a rebrand campaign for luxury brand Sulwhasoo this year. The company also returned to profitability in the second quarter of 2023, reporting that overseas revenue grew 27 percent, boosted by 105 percent growth in North America.

Unlike prestige predecessors, affordable K-beauty brands have become a draw for TikTok’s dupe-obsessed young shoppers. Beauty influencer Stephanie Valentine, known on TikTok as Glamzilla, prompted a sell out of Innisfree’s Dewy Glow Moisturizer when she offered it as a dupe for Tatcha’s Dewy Skin Cream Plumping & Hydrating Moisturizer. Within 48 hours, the item sold out at Sephora US and Canada as well as on the brand’s website.

“Innovation, no matter what category you’re talking about, clients are going to always be excited about that,” said Ullman. “Korean skin care is such an innovative player, so as long as they keep coming out with new formats, new textures, new ways to talk about skin care, there’s opportunity.”

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